VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
Moderatorzy: Seba WWA, Ryba, Sajmooon, janusz, Zielkq
VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
To begin the story, we have to go way back in the past. All the way to the times when I was still in the elementary school. That's when I bought my first car. It was mainly just for driving on a dirt track made on a field and drifting on ice. Of course it had to be a rwd one, and since I had been interested in soviet technology, Lada was a natural choice for me. I gave the machine no pity and I drove the thing like I stole it. Luckily it held up. Since I got older, the car was left standing behind a warehouse for several years.
My girlfriend saw the lada for the first time last summer and immedietly fell in love with it. She said to me, that we must have this one as a summer car, because it's so cute. And it has to be black. At this point I couldn't believe what se said and asked her "Are you serious?". She was. Whenever your better half gives you permission, or even better, want's you to buy a car, you better obey.
At first I decided to restore that old piece of soviet iron, but after punching several holes to the bottom with just my fingers, I gave up. I needed something that is already roadworthy and does not need to be welded. Well, at least not that much.
I searched high and low for a new one, and luckily my old friend had one for sale. The price was high at first, but I managed to negotiate it a bit lower. It had just passed the MOT and has to be inspected again as soon as july next year.
Here it is, a -88 VAZ 21013 "Lada 1200L"
"I'm not drunk, I'm just dodging potholes."
Technically this unit is in excellent condition, so I'll only have to focus on the bodywork and electrics. It will be painted glossy black next year.
So far I've repaired the following things:
-New radiator hoses
-Radiator inlet and outlet pipes soldered with brass
-New clutch master and slave cylinders
-New headlights and a voltage regulator
Plans:
-New floor panels
-New sills
-Install new tires with original rims
-New brake discs and pads
-Overhaul the carburetor
-Replace the wiring completely with a new OEM kit
Soviet nostalgia: VAZ 21013 and a MTZ-50
My girlfriend saw the lada for the first time last summer and immedietly fell in love with it. She said to me, that we must have this one as a summer car, because it's so cute. And it has to be black. At this point I couldn't believe what se said and asked her "Are you serious?". She was. Whenever your better half gives you permission, or even better, want's you to buy a car, you better obey.
At first I decided to restore that old piece of soviet iron, but after punching several holes to the bottom with just my fingers, I gave up. I needed something that is already roadworthy and does not need to be welded. Well, at least not that much.
I searched high and low for a new one, and luckily my old friend had one for sale. The price was high at first, but I managed to negotiate it a bit lower. It had just passed the MOT and has to be inspected again as soon as july next year.
Here it is, a -88 VAZ 21013 "Lada 1200L"
"I'm not drunk, I'm just dodging potholes."
Technically this unit is in excellent condition, so I'll only have to focus on the bodywork and electrics. It will be painted glossy black next year.
So far I've repaired the following things:
-New radiator hoses
-Radiator inlet and outlet pipes soldered with brass
-New clutch master and slave cylinders
-New headlights and a voltage regulator
Plans:
-New floor panels
-New sills
-Install new tires with original rims
-New brake discs and pads
-Overhaul the carburetor
-Replace the wiring completely with a new OEM kit
Soviet nostalgia: VAZ 21013 and a MTZ-50
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Nice classic car. In my family was a lot of cars Lada. Last sky-blue colour 2107 and the RWD delicious
P11 Turbo Diesel Intercooler <-- klik
Durable cars when maintained properly. I've got a impression over the years, that soviet era cars we're of much better quality than those made in modern Russia. But anyway, I consider it a Lada only if it's rwd. Others are a disgrace to cars. I've got some maintenance photos of what I've done so far and I'm planning to upload them here as soon as I have enough time. Stay tuned.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Our friend Kropa from Słupsk used to have Łada with 2.0 L engine from Opel Calibra and it was very fast car
Była Padlina:
Sajmooon'owa "Padlina"
Była Gruzz Operacyjna:
Sentra B15 Gruzz in da Haułs
Nissan jeszcze będzie... coming soon [2022]
Sajmooon'owa "Padlina"
Była Gruzz Operacyjna:
Sentra B15 Gruzz in da Haułs
Nissan jeszcze będzie... coming soon [2022]
One of my dreams has always been a Lada with SR20DE. Now that would be fast.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
I don't consider that piece of shit as a car at allWiooreck pisze:Lada samara is the fwd car.
[ Dodano: 2017-06-25, 15:48 ]
Right. This is gonna be a long one with lots of pics.
What I've done so far to the VAZ, the following is in chronological order.
Ever since I bought the car It felt like it died of fuel starvation. I decided to check the carb's float level. It should be 6,5 +/- 0,25mm measured from the gasket. It was more like 12mm. No wonder it died.
The soviet FSM photo explains how level is measured.
I also experienced a failure caused by contact points burning out. They weren't that old, but the previous owner never changed the condensator. I replaced the points, the condensator, the coil and plugs. Now it has a spark stronger than ever.
The car's fuel gauge had a habit of acting up when the headlights were turned on.
Headlights off..
and on.
This was caused by the pcb cracking and causing a open ground circuit.
Crack shown.
The fix was simply to solder some tin on the pcb.
Now the gauge works like it should.
The car had a habit of marking it's territory with cooland and oil. I already replaced the radiator with a one that had been re- soldered with brass, since the original inlet and outlet joints tend to break. I decided to replace all the thermostat and radiator hoses with new ones.
New radiator bottom hose.
New thermostat housing hoses.
And a new top hose.
No more coolant leaks.
The next in line was the front main seal. It leaked a lot. Replacing was relatively simple. Just remove the pulley, dig out the old seal and replace it with a new one.
Pulley been taken off showing the leaking seal
Leaking seal removed
The old seal.
Now I was happier than ever, I could park the car anywhere without listening to stupid remarks about the car leaking fluids.
Next I wanted to get rid of some pantents under the hood.
Washer tank got a new original bracket
I also tackled the charging issues with a new digital voltage regulator. This one is about 1/8 size of the original bulgarian.
Sometimes the clutch pedal would jam to the bottom, giving it only about a 30mm operating area. This was caused by nearly every possible seal leaking in the master and slave cylinder.
From this photo it can be seen why the cylinders leaked and jammed. I've drained the reservoir and this is what remained...
The only difficult task was to remove the pipe connecting the master cylinder to the clutch hose.
New slave cylinder & hose installed
I used this handy one man bleeding tool while bleeding the system. The magnet helps to lift the reservoir high enough to remove any air.
Lada's front brakes are as good as any other brakes, when maintained properly. These weren't. They screamed like someone was killing a pig whenever braking harder. I swapped the discs, pads and installing hardware.
This is about everything I've done so far.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Totenkopf, the things which you do is called passion.
I'm waiting for the next photo and relation
I'm waiting for the next photo and relation
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
Got a good set of parts.
Every VAZ has the habit of wire insulation rubbing off and causing blown fuses, especially in the multi function switch.
Removing the old one
Somebody had already tried to solve the problem...
New switch assembly installed. The wires are bundled more reasonably in the "Sdelano V Rossii"- version than in the old "Sdelano V SSSR"- version. I used some quality insulation tape to prevent any future rubbing.
The original (?) distributor had too much axle play, which caused the contact point gap to change all the time, causing misfires. I decided to replace the whole distributor, since it cost only 46€.
Old one being removed
New one.
New one going in. I tried to install it in the exact same spot, but still the timing was way off.
I set the timing to 10'BTDC and the engine purrs like a kitten.
Every VAZ has the habit of wire insulation rubbing off and causing blown fuses, especially in the multi function switch.
Removing the old one
Somebody had already tried to solve the problem...
New switch assembly installed. The wires are bundled more reasonably in the "Sdelano V Rossii"- version than in the old "Sdelano V SSSR"- version. I used some quality insulation tape to prevent any future rubbing.
The original (?) distributor had too much axle play, which caused the contact point gap to change all the time, causing misfires. I decided to replace the whole distributor, since it cost only 46€.
Old one being removed
New one.
New one going in. I tried to install it in the exact same spot, but still the timing was way off.
I set the timing to 10'BTDC and the engine purrs like a kitten.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Nice work ! Looks good, I will be following the subject
N14 GTi SR20DE, Rallycar
viewtopic.php?t=20750&postdays=0&postor ... &start=150
N15 GTi SR20DEH, Pies tropiciel
viewtopic.php?t=21606
viewtopic.php?t=20750&postdays=0&postor ... &start=150
N15 GTi SR20DEH, Pies tropiciel
viewtopic.php?t=21606
Lukicrx, Thanks! Next winter I'll be doing alot of welding to the body, looks like the whole floor needs to be replaced. Well, not the whole floor, but because there are some badly made repairs, I find it reasonable to replace the whole floor, since the repair pieces are rather cheap.
The colour is going to be glossy black, with white OEM rims. The inspiration comes from our youngest cat, she is black and has white paws.
I'd also like to buy a 1500 or 1600cc engine and rebuild it.
That's everything that I've planned so far.
The colour is going to be glossy black, with white OEM rims. The inspiration comes from our youngest cat, she is black and has white paws.
I'd also like to buy a 1500 or 1600cc engine and rebuild it.
That's everything that I've planned so far.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Thanks!
I've been gathering a few pars here and there, just to keep the car running.
My next plan is to replace the valve stem seals. I have already purchased the original tools for the job. The engine swap is postponed for now, I need to purchase some parts for the Primera also, so I can't simply afford it now.
[ Dodano: 2017-09-13, 18:49 ]
Well, the valve stem seals got replaced by new ones. The whole thing was quite simple, if you don't count the one crucial mistake that I made. I'll get to that later.
This is how it looks under the valve cover. Basicly this is as simple as it can get.
The camshaft is removed as an assembly. The rockers seemed to be in quite good condition, although I'm planning to replace the camshaft with a one from a Lada Niva. Supposed to bring some low- end torque.
The camshaft itself. Nothing to be concerned about. Things are looking quite clean when you consider the fact that this engine is almost 30- years old.
And finally the cause of my smoke cloud at cold start... They basicly crumbled white removing them.
Everything so far wen't smoothly, but then things took a turn to the worst...
I like to do things in privacy. The last thing that I wan't is some besserwisser giving me advices. This is exactly what happened next. I was just putting the cam sprocket back to the camshaft, when one of my dad's friends came to see what I was doing. He was constantly yapping nonsense and I lost my focus on what I was doing. This resulted in the timing chain skipping a tooth and the exhaust valve of cyl.3 hitting the piston... FUCK!! After I realized what had just happened, I told the guy that he can go and fuck himself. Haven't seen him ever since...
I swallowed my disappointment and pushed the car inside the garage. I searched the internet and found a set of new valves for only 70€. Not bad at all. They we're made by AMP (I think that you know the company). Good quality parts.
I waited until the next weekend for the valve replacement. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the actual procedure, because I don't like to mess my phone's screen. But basicly what I did was remove the cylinder head and all the valves and then lap the new valves with a grinding paste. Now, at this point people say that I should have taken the whole head to a machine shop and have the valve seats machined. If they are worn and burned, then maybe yes, but in this case there was no need for such thing. I managed to complete the task quite fast, it took me only 5 hours from start to finish. Give's you an idea of what it's like to work with a VAZ...
The bent valve.
New exhaust valves.
And intake valves.
Just out of curiosity, I purchased a set of all silicone valve stem seals.
So far I haven't noticed any smoke at startup. The new valves seat perfectly and the engine runs better than ever.
Now, next are some pictures of parts that I've replaced. Again, I don't have photos of the actual procedures, since my hands we're covered in oil, dirt and soviet grease all the time.
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints with ones made by TWR.
Wheel bearings were becoming noisy, so I replaced them also. A kit to one side cost 18,5€.
While I replaced the valves, I also replaced the thermostat. I wish it would be this simple in every car...
The exhaust system has seen better days, the front pipe was snapped. In came a new one made by Fenno-Steel
A new OEM intake pre-heater hose.
I have tried to tidy up a bit the engine bay. New radiator and oil filler caps, new vacuum hoses etc.
East meets west. Or should I say, east meets far- east.
At the moment I am waiting for my new rims to be sandblasted. Then I can have them powder coated at work.
[ Dodano: 2017-10-16, 16:03 ]
The summer went by and yesterday I ended the driving season for the Lada. A bit under 7kkm gathered up in the odometer during the 3,5 months that I drove it. Now I'm gathering up funds and interest to begint the bodywork. Here are a few pics with captions of what has happened since my last post.
The muffler had begun to show it's age, so I replaced it with a one made by Fenno-Steel. Fitment could have been a bit more precise, since I had to reposition the middle section in order to prevent the silencer from hitting the rear floor.
Now it has the world famous lada- tone.
The original motor mounts had pretty much perished. Nothing lasts forever, there lasted for only 29 years...
The propshaft support bearing started to make an awful growl, causing the whole car to vibrate like there's no tomorrow. I replaced the bearing and the universal joints.
The most usual problem with the Daaz-Ozon carburetor is a vacuum leak caused by a distorted base plate. This is caused by overtightening the fixing nuts. A old soviet trick is to use the profile washers of the valve cover under the carburetor nuts.
The valve cover is held by M6 studs.
So they need to be drilled in order to fit them to the intake studs.
The end result looks like it has been there since the beginning.
A new fuel pump was installed to get rid of the aftermarket one.
And the same thing was done with the ignition coil.
I mentioned earlier that I bought a new set of rims. They are of a VAZ-2105 and these were used also in the late 21013 models. They were sandblasted and powdercoated in RAL9016. I haven't installed them yet since I can't afford new tires at the moment...
I bought 3 "new" carburetors, since my old one was in quite bad shape. I restored all of them and installed on in my own car and sold one to a fellow colleaque.
An overhauled Daaz Ozon installed.
As you can see above, the secondary throttle plate is vacuum activated. I replaved the lever in order to make it manual. The engine responds better, but you have to be careful when going WOT, the engine might choke.
I also participated in two events. The first one was a meetup called "Tuning Sucks- Cruising". It's basicly intended for american cars only, but just to annoy all the idiots, I participated with my Lada.
The second event was last saturday, the first ever Lada meeting in my region. Arranged by me. There were 7 cars in total. More would have come, but people either forgot or were too shy.
This was a good point to end the season. This weekend I'll begin with disassembling the interior and planning what to do with the body.
I've been gathering a few pars here and there, just to keep the car running.
My next plan is to replace the valve stem seals. I have already purchased the original tools for the job. The engine swap is postponed for now, I need to purchase some parts for the Primera also, so I can't simply afford it now.
[ Dodano: 2017-09-13, 18:49 ]
Well, the valve stem seals got replaced by new ones. The whole thing was quite simple, if you don't count the one crucial mistake that I made. I'll get to that later.
This is how it looks under the valve cover. Basicly this is as simple as it can get.
The camshaft is removed as an assembly. The rockers seemed to be in quite good condition, although I'm planning to replace the camshaft with a one from a Lada Niva. Supposed to bring some low- end torque.
The camshaft itself. Nothing to be concerned about. Things are looking quite clean when you consider the fact that this engine is almost 30- years old.
And finally the cause of my smoke cloud at cold start... They basicly crumbled white removing them.
Everything so far wen't smoothly, but then things took a turn to the worst...
I like to do things in privacy. The last thing that I wan't is some besserwisser giving me advices. This is exactly what happened next. I was just putting the cam sprocket back to the camshaft, when one of my dad's friends came to see what I was doing. He was constantly yapping nonsense and I lost my focus on what I was doing. This resulted in the timing chain skipping a tooth and the exhaust valve of cyl.3 hitting the piston... FUCK!! After I realized what had just happened, I told the guy that he can go and fuck himself. Haven't seen him ever since...
I swallowed my disappointment and pushed the car inside the garage. I searched the internet and found a set of new valves for only 70€. Not bad at all. They we're made by AMP (I think that you know the company). Good quality parts.
I waited until the next weekend for the valve replacement. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the actual procedure, because I don't like to mess my phone's screen. But basicly what I did was remove the cylinder head and all the valves and then lap the new valves with a grinding paste. Now, at this point people say that I should have taken the whole head to a machine shop and have the valve seats machined. If they are worn and burned, then maybe yes, but in this case there was no need for such thing. I managed to complete the task quite fast, it took me only 5 hours from start to finish. Give's you an idea of what it's like to work with a VAZ...
The bent valve.
New exhaust valves.
And intake valves.
Just out of curiosity, I purchased a set of all silicone valve stem seals.
So far I haven't noticed any smoke at startup. The new valves seat perfectly and the engine runs better than ever.
Now, next are some pictures of parts that I've replaced. Again, I don't have photos of the actual procedures, since my hands we're covered in oil, dirt and soviet grease all the time.
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints with ones made by TWR.
Wheel bearings were becoming noisy, so I replaced them also. A kit to one side cost 18,5€.
While I replaced the valves, I also replaced the thermostat. I wish it would be this simple in every car...
The exhaust system has seen better days, the front pipe was snapped. In came a new one made by Fenno-Steel
A new OEM intake pre-heater hose.
I have tried to tidy up a bit the engine bay. New radiator and oil filler caps, new vacuum hoses etc.
East meets west. Or should I say, east meets far- east.
At the moment I am waiting for my new rims to be sandblasted. Then I can have them powder coated at work.
[ Dodano: 2017-10-16, 16:03 ]
The summer went by and yesterday I ended the driving season for the Lada. A bit under 7kkm gathered up in the odometer during the 3,5 months that I drove it. Now I'm gathering up funds and interest to begint the bodywork. Here are a few pics with captions of what has happened since my last post.
The muffler had begun to show it's age, so I replaced it with a one made by Fenno-Steel. Fitment could have been a bit more precise, since I had to reposition the middle section in order to prevent the silencer from hitting the rear floor.
Now it has the world famous lada- tone.
The original motor mounts had pretty much perished. Nothing lasts forever, there lasted for only 29 years...
The propshaft support bearing started to make an awful growl, causing the whole car to vibrate like there's no tomorrow. I replaced the bearing and the universal joints.
The most usual problem with the Daaz-Ozon carburetor is a vacuum leak caused by a distorted base plate. This is caused by overtightening the fixing nuts. A old soviet trick is to use the profile washers of the valve cover under the carburetor nuts.
The valve cover is held by M6 studs.
So they need to be drilled in order to fit them to the intake studs.
The end result looks like it has been there since the beginning.
A new fuel pump was installed to get rid of the aftermarket one.
And the same thing was done with the ignition coil.
I mentioned earlier that I bought a new set of rims. They are of a VAZ-2105 and these were used also in the late 21013 models. They were sandblasted and powdercoated in RAL9016. I haven't installed them yet since I can't afford new tires at the moment...
I bought 3 "new" carburetors, since my old one was in quite bad shape. I restored all of them and installed on in my own car and sold one to a fellow colleaque.
An overhauled Daaz Ozon installed.
As you can see above, the secondary throttle plate is vacuum activated. I replaved the lever in order to make it manual. The engine responds better, but you have to be careful when going WOT, the engine might choke.
I also participated in two events. The first one was a meetup called "Tuning Sucks- Cruising". It's basicly intended for american cars only, but just to annoy all the idiots, I participated with my Lada.
The second event was last saturday, the first ever Lada meeting in my region. Arranged by me. There were 7 cars in total. More would have come, but people either forgot or were too shy.
This was a good point to end the season. This weekend I'll begin with disassembling the interior and planning what to do with the body.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
i didn't visit this topic for a long time. And what i see? How many changes.
I like old cars very much. Why? Because they will be still drive though many failtures. And what is more you can fix it on the road with using basic keys. And you don't need computer
You should find front bumper. Imo, without a bumper, this car doesn't look good
I like old cars very much. Why? Because they will be still drive though many failtures. And what is more you can fix it on the road with using basic keys. And you don't need computer
You should find front bumper. Imo, without a bumper, this car doesn't look good
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
I'll try to find english word, which correctly reflecting meaning of word "zajebisty".
I found info, that the word "motherfucking" make have also positive meaning, but i don't know how many truth is in that.
But i prefer a more scientific description
_
I found info, that the word "motherfucking" make have also positive meaning, but i don't know how many truth is in that.
But i prefer a more scientific description
Very, very, very, (very) good car, and all in topic
_
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
Foo,sometimes, i'll write/say/do something what sounds/looks "intelligent", but it only sounds/looks......
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, The original bumpers are extremely hard to find. And they are also expensive. But just as soon as I get the Primera inspected, I'll begin to work with my Lada again.
About the simplicity, these are maintained with a Серп и молот
About the simplicity, these are maintained with a Серп и молот
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Re: VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
The driving season began last friday. I primed the carburetor with the manual fuel pump and turned the key. Fired right up.
At first I did some regular inspection. Some seals tend to start leaking after sitting through the winter, but this seemed to be healthy.
I decided to wash off all the dust and birdshit.
Two days passed and then I finally got to install my new and shiny wheels! I also did some fine tuning to the carburetor to improve performance.
After driving for one week, I got tired of the fuel consumption of the old OZON- carburetor. If you're using the original jets, it's running too lean. If you're using the jets that it functions properly with, it's worse than a V8 on fuel economy.
Luckily I had a cure for this disease.
I installed the DAAZ- Solex 21053-20 carburetor. I ordered a repair kit for 21073 and 21083 so that I could get some bigger jets. It actually began to accelerate like a furious rabbit!
The solenoid shown in the picture cuts off fuel delivery for the idle jet.
I installed a one way valve to the fuel return line. After the valve is a size 75 fuel jet, which is for restricting the return flow.
The fuel return line goes back to the pump inlet side.
And finally I took a photo of the car after initial test driving.
At first I did some regular inspection. Some seals tend to start leaking after sitting through the winter, but this seemed to be healthy.
I decided to wash off all the dust and birdshit.
Two days passed and then I finally got to install my new and shiny wheels! I also did some fine tuning to the carburetor to improve performance.
After driving for one week, I got tired of the fuel consumption of the old OZON- carburetor. If you're using the original jets, it's running too lean. If you're using the jets that it functions properly with, it's worse than a V8 on fuel economy.
Luckily I had a cure for this disease.
I installed the DAAZ- Solex 21053-20 carburetor. I ordered a repair kit for 21073 and 21083 so that I could get some bigger jets. It actually began to accelerate like a furious rabbit!
The solenoid shown in the picture cuts off fuel delivery for the idle jet.
I installed a one way valve to the fuel return line. After the valve is a size 75 fuel jet, which is for restricting the return flow.
The fuel return line goes back to the pump inlet side.
And finally I took a photo of the car after initial test driving.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Re: VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
Step by step and make a new car out of it!
Re: VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
Actually my plans go beyond new. I'd call it more like as good as new, but customized for my needs.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Re: VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
Ahh, where should I begin?
I did a major body repair on the car. I'm not going to describe everything, but here's the pile of metal that was replaced.
All this and a bit more was replaced. Ended up costing me a bit under 400€. Including shipping.
The actual body repair took place between 16.6-22.6. I worked outside most of the time, but I eventualy had to build a shelter to protect me against the heavy winds and rainfalls. The following images will explain alot more than a thousand words.
Am I happy with the results? Yes and no. Yes because now it's done and I won't propably ever have to worry about the sills or floor panels again. No because I'm nowhere near a professional and some of the repair panels didn't fit properly, so they were modified and hammered a bit.
I did a major body repair on the car. I'm not going to describe everything, but here's the pile of metal that was replaced.
All this and a bit more was replaced. Ended up costing me a bit under 400€. Including shipping.
The actual body repair took place between 16.6-22.6. I worked outside most of the time, but I eventualy had to build a shelter to protect me against the heavy winds and rainfalls. The following images will explain alot more than a thousand words.
Am I happy with the results? Yes and no. Yes because now it's done and I won't propably ever have to worry about the sills or floor panels again. No because I'm nowhere near a professional and some of the repair panels didn't fit properly, so they were modified and hammered a bit.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Re: VAZ 21013 "Button eye"
Next on the line was to repair all the electrical flaws that the car had. The original wiring loom had seen it's best days and someone had even modified it with some idiotic connections, extra relays etc.
So I replaced the whole wiring loom. The job would have been extremely simple, if the part quality would be at the same level as western standards. Some of the wires were broken and I believe I got my first gray hairs while sorting them out. Now it works just like it should. I actually have now the SDM (Soviet Domestic Market) model that has a separate switch for the odometer illumination and driving lights. I only have to connect the hazard lights now. The soviet model didn't come with a heated rear window as standard, so I left it off for now, but I still have the original wires, switch and relay for it.
New switch orientation
Things are looking alot more simple now under the bonnet. The biggest improvement is that now I can finally track down faults with the wiring schematics as everything is done as in the original wiring scheme.
I even got a set of new OEM plugs, A17DVR
Now we're not proceeding in a chronological order, but this is important enough to be mentioned.
In the early days of summer, I borrowed an AFR meter made by PLX developements from my colleaque at work. I just had to buy a nut to fit the lambda sensor to my front pipe. The whole point was to see what's going on with the new bigger carburetor.
Carburated engines, especially this one,are quite tricky to adjust. A Lada engine requires alot bigger main fuel jets to operate properly than any other car that I know. It is just something that this engine type is famous of. If I would have gone with the factory standards, it would have been a nightmare to drive, since operating this carburetor in a 1,2l engine instead of 1,5l that it was designes for, the airflow is alot lower so the mixture leans out. At an AFR of 13,5-14,2 the engine performs quite well on the primary barrel. When you're going WOT and opening up the secondary barrel, then the AFR goes to around 13-12,7 which is pretty much at the max power output.
The biggest challenge with all this is the heat that the engine produces. The intake manifold sits right above the exhaust, so eventually the fuel starts to boil. This is something that I'm not really enjoying since the engine starts to jerk.
Now, the Solex is designed to run with a leaner mixture than the old DAAZ-Weber and DAAZ-Ozon carburetos. Original contact ignition does not produce a strong enough spark to ignite a lean mixture, so I wen't and bought a contactless ignition. It came with a new distributor, wiring loom, commutator and a coil.
Now the engine operates alot steadier even when cold and warms up quickly.
One of my dreams came true when I got a deal for a new engine. This costed me only 80€ so I would have been a fool for not buying it. It's a 1500cc VAZ 2103 engine. The difference is a higher block with a longer stroke crankshaft. The 2101 has a troke of 66mm whereas the 2103 has 80mm. The pistons are the same. I'm planing to rebuild it with a higher compression ratio and install a bit more aggressive camshaft to it. Then I also need a bigger carburetor, possibly a Weber 32/36 DGV 5A.
Because of the heatwave at the moment, I experimented with a DIY cold air intake. it's only a 60mm aluminium hose between the air cleaner intake and the front grille. Works like a dream.
I also went and got the car inspected. It passed with flying colours.
This is how it looks at the moment. I'm saving money for a paintjob.
So I replaced the whole wiring loom. The job would have been extremely simple, if the part quality would be at the same level as western standards. Some of the wires were broken and I believe I got my first gray hairs while sorting them out. Now it works just like it should. I actually have now the SDM (Soviet Domestic Market) model that has a separate switch for the odometer illumination and driving lights. I only have to connect the hazard lights now. The soviet model didn't come with a heated rear window as standard, so I left it off for now, but I still have the original wires, switch and relay for it.
New switch orientation
Things are looking alot more simple now under the bonnet. The biggest improvement is that now I can finally track down faults with the wiring schematics as everything is done as in the original wiring scheme.
I even got a set of new OEM plugs, A17DVR
Now we're not proceeding in a chronological order, but this is important enough to be mentioned.
In the early days of summer, I borrowed an AFR meter made by PLX developements from my colleaque at work. I just had to buy a nut to fit the lambda sensor to my front pipe. The whole point was to see what's going on with the new bigger carburetor.
Carburated engines, especially this one,are quite tricky to adjust. A Lada engine requires alot bigger main fuel jets to operate properly than any other car that I know. It is just something that this engine type is famous of. If I would have gone with the factory standards, it would have been a nightmare to drive, since operating this carburetor in a 1,2l engine instead of 1,5l that it was designes for, the airflow is alot lower so the mixture leans out. At an AFR of 13,5-14,2 the engine performs quite well on the primary barrel. When you're going WOT and opening up the secondary barrel, then the AFR goes to around 13-12,7 which is pretty much at the max power output.
The biggest challenge with all this is the heat that the engine produces. The intake manifold sits right above the exhaust, so eventually the fuel starts to boil. This is something that I'm not really enjoying since the engine starts to jerk.
Now, the Solex is designed to run with a leaner mixture than the old DAAZ-Weber and DAAZ-Ozon carburetos. Original contact ignition does not produce a strong enough spark to ignite a lean mixture, so I wen't and bought a contactless ignition. It came with a new distributor, wiring loom, commutator and a coil.
Now the engine operates alot steadier even when cold and warms up quickly.
One of my dreams came true when I got a deal for a new engine. This costed me only 80€ so I would have been a fool for not buying it. It's a 1500cc VAZ 2103 engine. The difference is a higher block with a longer stroke crankshaft. The 2101 has a troke of 66mm whereas the 2103 has 80mm. The pistons are the same. I'm planing to rebuild it with a higher compression ratio and install a bit more aggressive camshaft to it. Then I also need a bigger carburetor, possibly a Weber 32/36 DGV 5A.
Because of the heatwave at the moment, I experimented with a DIY cold air intake. it's only a 60mm aluminium hose between the air cleaner intake and the front grille. Works like a dream.
I also went and got the car inspected. It passed with flying colours.
This is how it looks at the moment. I'm saving money for a paintjob.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold