FORUM NISSAN ZONE

Not all fotos work
Again great job mate

Ad@mus pisze:Not all fotos work
Again great job mate

Really? I can see all of them.

Now its OK

Ad@mus pisze:Now its OK

Thank god. They're linked through another website, since I don't like uploading to photobucker from my already dead slow computer.

[ Dodano: 2017-07-18, 15:31 ]
Howdy.

Not too many updates, but to me they're still very important.

I had posponed the reneval of underbody rust protection for far too long. If I would have waited for next year, it would have been too late.

Nothing too concerning revealed while scraping off the old mass, a few surface rust spots, but no need for welding. At least yet. For spots that showed rust, I cleaned them with a wire brush and gave them a coat of MASTON Etch 1K Primer- Acid Primer. Then after it had dried, I gave the whole thing a good coat of Dinitrol 4941/Car underbody coating. All the hollow points we're treated with Dinitrol ML- cavity wax. The whole thing took me less than 5 hours, but when you count the fact that the products dry and cure SLOWLY, it took me three days.

As seen on the photos below, the Dinitrol 4941/Car gives a nice matte finish when completely cured.










Maston Etch 1K Primer (Acid Primer)


Dinitrol ML- cavity wax


Dinitrol 4941/CAR- underbody coat


Another thing worth mentioning is, that I swapped the odometer background to a gray one from a WP11 Si. I prefer the new look more than the original black.



[ Dodano: 2017-08-10, 18:18 ]
A little update. My holiday is done and dusted. I had some time to work with the Primera, but the weather was so crappy most of the time that I had to postpone most of my plans.

Remember the nylon bushings on a post some time ago? I installed them. It was relatively simple and the only thing that you have to be careful about is making sure you remove all the rust from the link. Now the stick feels more precise and the box shifts like a new one.


I also had some voltage drop issues on the charging circuit. I isolated the main cause to be in the two wires that come from the alternator positive post to the connector behind the abs- motor. I swapped the wires with new 6mm2 wires. Now the voltage drop is only 0,32V with the headlights on, as it used to be almost 0,8V.

Original wires compared to the new ones.






I also installed new battery terminals.


Tried machine polishing for the first time in my life. It removed most of the scratches.







I also swapped the sunglass holder to the drivers side.

In my opinion earlier the odometer looked much better.

If you changed this short part of cable, you should also change the rest part of wire. From connector to battery. Hmm.... maybe i should do the same in my car?

janusz, I will. I have two choices for my plans of tomorrow.

1. Replace the rest of the wire.
2. Replace the valve stem seals of my VAZ.

I think I'm choosing the second option.

Today I did another modification that I've wanted to do for a long time.

I swapped the rear lights to the older clear ones. Much better looking IMO.

Much better great job.

Thanks.

A good tip for anyone considering the same modification: make sure you get the bulb holder also from the clear lens light. It uses a different type of bulb than the new one.

Totenkopf, where do you have nylon bushing for gear knob?

arczar, I purchased them from a Russian colleague. They're custom made by order.

I think that we could do a group order for this parts But the first question is - what is the cost?

janusz, If I remember correctly, I paid 25 USD for the bushings and the inlet mesh. 25 USD for shipping from Moscow to Kuopio. I think that a group order could be arranged, but it takes time.

Inlet mesh - is not necessary. But only bushing ...

If you can get an estimate of how many sets you want, I'll ask for the price.

[ Dodano: 2017-08-23, 19:28 ]
As they say, nothing lasts forever, excepts a pigs snout and barbwire. I have never seen neither of those worn out.

While I was renewing the underbody coating in the summer, I noticed that one spot had some rust on it in the rear part of the floor panel. I cleaned it with a wire brush attached to a drill and thought that I finally wit some solid steel.

Well, this monday I decided it was time to vacuum clean the interior. A normal procedure for me, but this time was going to be different as I wanted to clean also under the floor carpet. When I lifted the carpet off the rear seat foot floor, I noticed some suspicious looking rust bubbles. I started to scratch it with a flathead screwdriver and finally gave it a proper punch. It went right trough. I was shocked.

Yesterday I decided to cut off the rotten piece and weld some fresh metal to the hole.

Here the actual rotten part can be seen clearly. I drilled some holes to mark the edges for my angle grinder.


I did the welding from above, since it was easier. A wiev of the repair piece from underneath.


Finally, I can say that the body has remained in quite good shape for it's age, this december is my Primera's 20th birthday.

[ Dodano: 2017-08-27, 20:00 ]
Once again it's time to change the oil. But to what?

I'm thinking of liqui moly or the nissan brand that I used last summer. Any suggestions?
As for the filter I think that I'll have the OEM.

LM it is a good oil. OEM oil - hmm if i know Nissan use a Shell's oilsm - anyway in Poland

http://xado.fi/index.php?id_category=24 ... &id_lang=4 Xado Luxury Drive has a 2nd place on my Xado has a 2nd place on my oils list

Now i have Xado in egine and gearbox - good oils, very good.

janusz, I've read from many places that the Nissan oil is made by Total.

Anyway, I changed the oil yesterday. I chose the Nissan oil and as for the filter it would have been silly to use anything else but the original.

Starting with the flush.


Tools for the trade.


I drove with the Comma Motorsport 5W-50 for a bit under 8000km's. Altogether I can highly recommend it. I first thought of using the same oil, but since winter is coming I decided not to.

Hmm, I might order a can of LX for my next oil change. The last time I checked it wasn't available. The Xado.fi is actually located in Estonia. I have done business with the owner and everything went smoothly.

I hope you were not referring to that stupid tv- show

The Primera is a good car, but there are a few things that could have been done alot better. This includes the windshield washer system. If the wipers with their links don't cause you enough gray hair, this one will. I cannot possibly imagine what has been going through the engineers mind while this one was designed.

The first improvement is off course to add a non return- valve to the pump pressure line, in order to get fluid to the windshield before the wipers start moving. Well, I already did that, so I was left with my leaking fluid tank and a pump that had seen better days. There really should be a filter in the filler...

At first I installed a chep aftermarket pump. This one was even worse than my old pump.



Then I swapped it to a pump that came with my new tank. By the way, the whole thing is from a GT sportdeck. My fix to the twin outlet problem can be seen clearly. I will be installing a t- connector later.



Now, there is the biggest improvement, but I haven't got the parts for it, yet. So stay tuned.

Totenkopf, this pump http://allegro.pl/pompka-spryskiwacza-f ... 48904.html fits and works way better then the original

ulisses, thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Now the only thing left to do is to find it from this crappy country....

Now, about the best upgrade. The original washer nozzles are a pathetic presentation. They get always clogged and require constant adjusting. Luckily my neighbour country has a solution for this problem.


The part number. These two nozzles cost me 19 euros. Worth every cent. There are chinese copies available, don't buy them. Theyre useless.


The actual part installed.


A bad photo of the spray pattern. This is with the original pump.


Finally, to avoid the wipers from wiping a dry windshield, a non return- valve should be installed in the line.

Why you don't asked me about pump? If i know, i've got this type of pump - somewhere in my parts.

janusz, I sent you a PM.

[ Dodano: 2017-09-07, 17:44 ]
Update.

Today I bought the pump that ulisses advertised to me. The difference is like night and day. Now I only need to find the original connector for the new pump.





[ Dodano: 2017-09-13, 18:53 ]
Every morning I've been struggling with my car's windows fogging up from inside. It takes quite some time for them to clear up, no matter how well you try to clean them. This is extremely annoying, especially when you're in a hurry. I searched for a solution for some time and found several products. After reading all the reviews, I decided to try Verylube Antituman, since it appeared to have the best reviews. Application is simple:

1. Wash and dry the window to be applied.
2. Spray the product to the surface intended to.
3. Dry with a cloth.

The instructions didn't mention about cleaning the windows first, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to do so. It says that the treatment should be done in a interval of 3-4 weeks.

Last night I applied the product to my Primera, because the forecast showed some heavy rain approaching. And what do you know, my windows have stayed clear ever since!

Driver's side front window


Windshield


The actual product

How much did you pay for the oil? And what is your first impressions after applied OEM oil?

SOFT99 has similar product in its offer, but i suppose that the price Very Lube is lower than SOFT99

janusz, the 5 liter can cost me 34,90€. So far I have driven about 1kkm after the oil change and my impressions are that the engine runs smoother and seems a bit more responsive. This is also due to other reasons that the oil has absolutely nothing to do with. On the other hand, it feels a bit more noisier after the Comma, but again, the engine is showing it's age...

The antituman cost 3,57€....

I really shouldn't hang out at german and spanish car sale sites... Now I feel like buying another one of these...

My oil change interval will be soon, so maybe i'll also take a Genuine Oil. I didn't use for the genuine oil yet - maybe it's a time to do it

janusz, by all means, give it a try!

[ Dodano: 2017-10-21, 16:36 ]
Yesterday I changed the tires again. Same old Hakkapeliitta 8's with still a good 7mm of tread left.



Last year the swap took place at october 22nd and the first snow fell at october 25th. We'll see how it goes this year.

One thing annoys me more than anything with this car. It's the fuel pressure. After replacing the fuel pump, I didn't have time to check the pressure, until now. Everything seemed to be in order UNTIL the engine gets hot. Then the pressure somehow drops. And I cannot think of why.

The following pictures are taken with a warm engine.

Vacuum disconnected


Vacuum connected


When the engine gets hot, the pressure drops to 2,9-2,8 without vacuum and 2,2 with vacuum. The following has been already done.

-New fuel pump
-New pressure regulator
-New fuel filter
-Cleaned injectors

At the moment i'm at a dead end with this. I highly doubt that the pump is dead again.

[ Dodano: 2017-11-13, 17:00 ]
Again, the first snow fell soon after I swapped to winter tires.



It seems that for some reason, the fuel pump's non- return valve is not holding properly. I have a new pump that I'm going to try out this weekend. If it is still the same, then I will give up on it, since I cannot think of anything else.

Now, I've been planning a small modification for two years, but for some reason never got it done. Until yesterday. The original plastic fasteners that hold the engine protective plates are a pain in the ass to remove. If you manage to remove them in one piece, they are likely to fall off when installed again.

At work I use allmost daily these things called rivet nuts. They are inserted to a pre- drilled hole and then compressed either with a mechanical or a pneumatic tool. They come in several different sizes and are very handy.

A M6 rivet nut.


I installed them to the crossmember and radiator support.

Here's what it looks like installed.


The installation tool crushes the rivet causing it to sit tight in it's hole.


Now all the plastics are held with M6 bolts.


Some of you might think that it's bad, because the bolts tend to rust and seize. Now, the rivet nuts are electro- zinc coated and I also use stainless steel bolts with them. I even added some waterproof grease to the threads. I think that they will come off easily when needed.

I didn't bought OEM oil, because when i asked about the price and i get the answer i made a huge eyes and i thanked for OEM oil - the price in ASO circa 100€

I used screw and nut to mount the cover

I still have a summer tires, and i think that i'll change them in december or after first snow. But i must start to think about new summer tires

100€? That must be part liquid gold

Well lucky you. We've had a quite interesting weather. It either rains or snows. The forecast however shows that the temperature will drop below zero for good bext week. Do you guys get your tires cheaper if you buy them "off season"?

Btw. I replaced the fuel pump for the third time. I have pretty much gone through the whole system and came to a conclusion that it was the pump the whole time. It turned out that my new bosch was faulty and did not generate enough pressure. Even the check valve was leaking. So off with the old and in with the new. Luckily it was only 40€.




Now it seems to be working just like it should. Before anyone asks, yes, it was a genuine product.

[ Dodano: 2017-11-17, 20:11 ]
As we all know, aftermarket suspension parts (and pretty much everything else also) comes with little or no lubrication at all. I learned this solution from a fellow colleaque here in Finland.

First, you need to drill a 5mm hole to the desired spot.


Then you tap it to M6X1,0 threads


And finally you install the grease nipple. Now you can grease it up all you want. Multiplies the lifespan.


I used an angle model for the inner bushing.


[ Dodano: 2017-11-18, 19:01 ]
Swapped both of the links today. The original links are otherwise in good condition, only the bushings are deformed.

I got some comments about the grease nipples being useless because of the inner seals. While I was greasing them up after the swap, the grease penetrated through the seals with ease.









[ Dodano: 2017-12-01, 04:11 ]




[center]Today is the 20th birthday of my Primera. As a gift I'm planning to replace the tie rod ends this weekend.[/center]




_

Happy birthday

Up.

As mentioned before, the car had it's birthday yesterday. For it's age I dare to say that it's in good condition.

As a gift I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends.

The outer ones were easy to find, but the same thing cannot be said of the inner ones. There is no actual part number given to them, since the whole steering rack is sold as an assembly which consists of pretty much everything. Once again, I turned my vision to the east and started to browse through russian sites hoping to find asnwers. After several days of searching, I hit the jackpot. Well, not directly, but after cross referencing some part numbers, I found out that Febi Bilstein makes parts that actually fit perfectly.

Besides the fact that there was no part number, I was confused of the variety of parts all the internet stores offered me. Some offered a one with M16 inner threads and other with M14. I could not dissassemble the whole thing to figure it out, because I needed my car daily. I just made an order and hoped for the best.

Outer tie rod part number


Inner part number


Here's what was revealed under the protective boot. I expeted alot worse.


As we know, some of the inner tie rods are equipped with slots that fit a wrench. Well, these weren't, so I had to purchase a special tool for the task. It cost me 54,9€, but saved alot of coarse language and time.


Old vs. New. Almost identical.


This was the only marking I could find from the old one. I tried to google it but nothing sensible came out.


Finally a quick wash to rinse off the road salt.


At the moment I'm working with the original top links. The inner bushings have proved to be a royal pain in the ass. They just don't want to come off.

[ Dodano: 2017-12-15, 15:08 ]
Small updates.

Lately I haven't really done much to the car. It has been working rather well, so I've just driven it.

However, I replaced the AAC- valve assembly with a "new" one, sinve the plunger on the original one was broken.

Here's a bad picture of the broken plunger. As you might see, a small pieve is missing. Luckily the engine did not digest it and I found it resting against the spring.


This is taken from the new valve.


Old vs. new. Before installing the new valve, I straightened the gasket surface to ensure a good seal.


New one installed.


I used Datascan to test it. Works just like it should.


After that I adjusted the base idle & timing.


Someone had been messing with the fast idle cam, so it had to be re- adjusted. There are instructions to this procedure in the FSM.

The thermo wax reacts to the coolant temperature and actuates a pushrod, which rotates a cam that moves the throttle plate. This is what causes the high idle when the engine is cold. Adjustmend is made by either increasing or decreasing the gap "A" by turning the adjustmend screw "S".


Nissan has a nice little chart that tells you how big the gap "A" should be at certain temperatures.


And finally the whole thing in real life:

Gap "A"


Screw "S"


The latest repair has been the replacement of the distributor cap and rotor. I had some shitty aftermarket ones which came with the reconditioned distributor. I swapped them to new OEM- ones and the difference was obvious.







Now I'm planning to buy a 1997 P11 GT for spare parts. It has alot of good parts left, but the rear axle mounts have corroded so badly that the car cannot be driven anymore and it's not worth the trouble to repair it. It's also been snowing like there's no tomorrow lately. I really need a wheel alignment...

[ Dodano: 2017-12-24, 13:22 ]
Merry christmas to all of you!

Here's my present