[ Primera] P11-120 SE SR20DEH
Moderatorzy: Seba WWA, Ryba, Sajmooon, janusz, Zielkq
Ad@mus, I am flattered by your compliments. I must remember to take my canon with me some day.
[ Dodano: 2016-12-29, 17:48 ]
I went shopping today, since I got a 50€ gift card from my father in law.
It's basicly the same thing as XADO LX. Only difference is that instead of Xado revitalixant it contains RVS- gel.
I was a bit disappointed about the quality of the odometer comparison photos I posted earlier, so here are new ones.
Fully dimmed:
Full brightness:
[ Dodano: 2016-12-29, 17:48 ]
I went shopping today, since I got a 50€ gift card from my father in law.
It's basicly the same thing as XADO LX. Only difference is that instead of Xado revitalixant it contains RVS- gel.
I was a bit disappointed about the quality of the odometer comparison photos I posted earlier, so here are new ones.
Fully dimmed:
Full brightness:
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
I've got the same opinion like Ad@mus. In many cases the daily car might be more interesting than typical weekend/summer car
Hmmm you said something about my oil with ACEA C3 I think that you should test 0W30 or 5W30 oils
Hmmm you said something about my oil with ACEA C3 I think that you should test 0W30 or 5W30 oils
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, This oil has RVS- gel added to it, just like your Xado had revitalizant. It replaces the ZDDP- additive. So in this case it really doesn't matter, since the additive is superior to zddp in every way.
[ Dodano: 2016-12-30, 09:34 ]
I think I might switch to steel rims for next winter, since the OEM alloys are showing signs of oxidation. I really would not like to, but looks like I got no choice anymore... The use of punch balance weights and road salt is not a good combination on alloys. I just got one fixed and re- balanced with adhesive weights.
The shop where I got my tires fitted used regular balancing weights on my alloy rims. Paint got chipped off and the rim had begun to oxidate and developed a leak, where inflation pressure dropped from 2,2 bar to 0,9 bar in 1,5 weeks. The mechanic used some thick grease on the lip of the rim to help it seal better. No way in hell I'm gonna buy anything from them again
[ Dodano: 2016-12-30, 09:34 ]
I think I might switch to steel rims for next winter, since the OEM alloys are showing signs of oxidation. I really would not like to, but looks like I got no choice anymore... The use of punch balance weights and road salt is not a good combination on alloys. I just got one fixed and re- balanced with adhesive weights.
The shop where I got my tires fitted used regular balancing weights on my alloy rims. Paint got chipped off and the rim had begun to oxidate and developed a leak, where inflation pressure dropped from 2,2 bar to 0,9 bar in 1,5 weeks. The mechanic used some thick grease on the lip of the rim to help it seal better. No way in hell I'm gonna buy anything from them again
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
If you decide to come to Poland, you'll get 4 steel rims
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
One could say it's been a bit chilly this week.
You notice the low temperature only by the fuel needle lowering like a cow's tail
You notice the low temperature only by the fuel needle lowering like a cow's tail
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, Totally dislike
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Podróże małe i duże
Pomoc prawna: Adwokat Wrocław
Z YT: "JDM wants to be USDM, Euro wants to be USDM and USDM wants to be Euro."
Pomoc prawna: Adwokat Wrocław
Z YT: "JDM wants to be USDM, Euro wants to be USDM and USDM wants to be Euro."
20°C
Polish people are sleeping without any covering.
Americans assume sweaters.
Residents of Miami begin to turn on heating
10°C
Americans are shaking from the cold.
The Italian cars don't want to start up.
You can see your breath
0°C
Water begins to freeze.
The Russians are going to swim.
French cars don't want to start up.
-10°C
Swedes cease ventilate the apartment.
Polish people start to assume caps.
The Turks are buying their own sheepskins
-20°C
Your cat wants to sleep with you under one quilt.
Politicians begin to talk about the homeless.
German cars don't want to start up.
We dream of an expedition to the south.
-30°C
Russians assume t-shirts.
You need cables to start up your car.
Your cat wants to sleep in your pajamas.
-40°C
Politicians begin to do something with the homeless.
We can with your breath to build houses igloo.
Japanese cars don't want to ignite.
We want to go on the south.
-50°C
Too cold to think.
You need starter cables to the driver began to function.
Russians - they close the window in the bathroom
-60°C
Polar bears move south.
Lawyers put their hands in their own pockets
-273°C (0 K)
absolute zero; no movement of elementary particles
Russians admit that it is a little cold, but he drinks a bottle and get heated
Polish people are sleeping without any covering.
Americans assume sweaters.
Residents of Miami begin to turn on heating
10°C
Americans are shaking from the cold.
The Italian cars don't want to start up.
You can see your breath
0°C
Water begins to freeze.
The Russians are going to swim.
French cars don't want to start up.
-10°C
Swedes cease ventilate the apartment.
Polish people start to assume caps.
The Turks are buying their own sheepskins
-20°C
Your cat wants to sleep with you under one quilt.
Politicians begin to talk about the homeless.
German cars don't want to start up.
We dream of an expedition to the south.
-30°C
Russians assume t-shirts.
You need cables to start up your car.
Your cat wants to sleep in your pajamas.
-40°C
Politicians begin to do something with the homeless.
We can with your breath to build houses igloo.
Japanese cars don't want to ignite.
We want to go on the south.
-50°C
Too cold to think.
You need starter cables to the driver began to function.
Russians - they close the window in the bathroom
-60°C
Polar bears move south.
Lawyers put their hands in their own pockets
-273°C (0 K)
absolute zero; no movement of elementary particles
Russians admit that it is a little cold, but he drinks a bottle and get heated
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
Finnish weather explained
+15°C / 59°F
This is as warm as it gets in Finland, so we'll start here.
People in Spain wears winter-coats and gloves.
The Finns are out in the sun, getting a tan.
+10°C / 50°F
The French are trying in vain to start their central heating.
The Finns plant flowers in their gardens.
+5°C / 41°F
Italian cars won't start.
The Finns are cruising in cabriolets.
0°C / 32°F
Distilled water freezes.
The water in the Vanda river (in Finland) gets a little thicker.
-5°C / 23°F
People in California freeze to death.
The Finns have their final barbecue before winter.
-10°C / 14°F
The Brits start the heat in their houses.
The Finns start using long sleeves.
-20°C / -4°F
The Aussies flee from Mallorca.
The Finns end their Midsummer celebrations. Autumn is here.
-30°C / -22°F
People in Greece die.
The Finns start drying their laundry indoors.
-40°C / -40°F
Paris start cracking in the cold.
The Finns stand in line at the "grilli-kioski".
-50°C / -58°F
Polar bears start evacuating the North Pole.
The Finnish army postpones their winter survival training awaiting real winter weather.
-60°C / -76°F
The Finnish army goes out on winter survival training.
-183°C / -297.4°F
Microbes in food don't survive.
Finnish cows complain that the farmers' hands are cold.
-273°C / -459.4°F
All atom-based movent halts.
Finns say "Perkele, it's cold outside today."
-300°C / -508°F
Hell freezes over.
Finland announces a tax reduction.
[ Dodano: 2017-01-12, 15:30 ]
UP.
Bought some parts.
The top guide came with the timing kit, didn't install it back then. Might as well do it now.
+15°C / 59°F
This is as warm as it gets in Finland, so we'll start here.
People in Spain wears winter-coats and gloves.
The Finns are out in the sun, getting a tan.
+10°C / 50°F
The French are trying in vain to start their central heating.
The Finns plant flowers in their gardens.
+5°C / 41°F
Italian cars won't start.
The Finns are cruising in cabriolets.
0°C / 32°F
Distilled water freezes.
The water in the Vanda river (in Finland) gets a little thicker.
-5°C / 23°F
People in California freeze to death.
The Finns have their final barbecue before winter.
-10°C / 14°F
The Brits start the heat in their houses.
The Finns start using long sleeves.
-20°C / -4°F
The Aussies flee from Mallorca.
The Finns end their Midsummer celebrations. Autumn is here.
-30°C / -22°F
People in Greece die.
The Finns start drying their laundry indoors.
-40°C / -40°F
Paris start cracking in the cold.
The Finns stand in line at the "grilli-kioski".
-50°C / -58°F
Polar bears start evacuating the North Pole.
The Finnish army postpones their winter survival training awaiting real winter weather.
-60°C / -76°F
The Finnish army goes out on winter survival training.
-183°C / -297.4°F
Microbes in food don't survive.
Finnish cows complain that the farmers' hands are cold.
-273°C / -459.4°F
All atom-based movent halts.
Finns say "Perkele, it's cold outside today."
-300°C / -508°F
Hell freezes over.
Finland announces a tax reduction.
[ Dodano: 2017-01-12, 15:30 ]
UP.
Bought some parts.
The top guide came with the timing kit, didn't install it back then. Might as well do it now.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Again you'll change rocker cover gasket? In my opinion, it doesn't make sense. Every replacement is a little bit lower than OEM. Use a silicone and don't skimp it
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, I've never liked the idea of re- using gaskets that are crushed when installed. I once did so, and found out that the gasket itself had actually shrunken so much that I had a hard time reinstalling it. No matter how much silicone I used, it still leaked like hell. I also happened to have 2 brand new Elring 056.410's, so why not.
After another lesson learned from last time, I added alot more silicone. Might be an overkill, but still alot better than the timing chain cover/oil pump covered in a mix of dust and engine oil.
I used some heavy duty detergents to clean the baffles inside the rocker cover. Not much came out, but it seemed to flow better the more I flushed it. I think that the whole baffle system should have more drain holes than just one that is small enough to get clogged.
After seeing several photos here of people installing the chain top guide, I decided to so as well.
Now I am in a desperate shortage of funds, so it might be a while when I have enough money to work with the car. Paying the rent for two separate apartments is not cheap... Once again I can test that how much furniture can be fitted to a P11
[ Dodano: 2017-02-19, 13:59 ]
Up.
Changed the oil, had been running with Archoil 2300 for about 6kkm's (the manual says to use it for 6-8kkm's if synthetic PAO is used.). Alot of crap came out, and it seemed that the engine had started to burn some oil, again. I blame my short trips with alot of sitting in the traffic lights. Anyway, being always inspired by new innovations, (at least new to me) I decided to try and decarbonize the combustion chambers. I didn't have the time to purchase an apporopriate product for such matter, so I did a cocktail from and old CRC- motor flush and Redline Si-1. After soaking for only 1,5 hours on a warm engine, alot of crap came out as I used first compressed air to get rid off the excess fluid. After finally starting the car there was a strange smell in the exhaust, as it was to be expected. This cleaning process took place during the draining after using Motorspülung. After that I gathered up all of my remaining cans of 5W-40 and managed to get a full 3L to flush the remaining crap out.
After that was the time to pour in our equivalent of Xado Luxury Drive, Motox FullSyn RVS.
Been driving with it for 300km's now. Pretty much similiar experiences as janusz had with Xado.
Last but not least, the Primera managed to stay clean for one full day.
Sorry for the lack of photos. I was tired, It was cold and so on.
[ Dodano: 2017-02-25, 16:56 ]
Up again.
Today I had enough time to change the front shock's. The old ones we're absolutely destroyed. It took me 4 hours to do both sides. Would have been alot quicker if the previous mechanic would have had a clue what he was doing. Everything was tightened up with a 1 meter extension, my impact air gun had just enough punch to break them loose. The top link bushings are also gone, the rh- side link is pretty much stuck into one position, thanks to the previous owner...
New vs. old.
I used Magnum Technology shocks, Monroe dust cover kits, CS springs and Febi top mount bushings.
I know, the shocks are of a shitty brand. But come on, I got them for 15€ a pair!
After another lesson learned from last time, I added alot more silicone. Might be an overkill, but still alot better than the timing chain cover/oil pump covered in a mix of dust and engine oil.
I used some heavy duty detergents to clean the baffles inside the rocker cover. Not much came out, but it seemed to flow better the more I flushed it. I think that the whole baffle system should have more drain holes than just one that is small enough to get clogged.
After seeing several photos here of people installing the chain top guide, I decided to so as well.
Now I am in a desperate shortage of funds, so it might be a while when I have enough money to work with the car. Paying the rent for two separate apartments is not cheap... Once again I can test that how much furniture can be fitted to a P11
[ Dodano: 2017-02-19, 13:59 ]
Up.
Changed the oil, had been running with Archoil 2300 for about 6kkm's (the manual says to use it for 6-8kkm's if synthetic PAO is used.). Alot of crap came out, and it seemed that the engine had started to burn some oil, again. I blame my short trips with alot of sitting in the traffic lights. Anyway, being always inspired by new innovations, (at least new to me) I decided to try and decarbonize the combustion chambers. I didn't have the time to purchase an apporopriate product for such matter, so I did a cocktail from and old CRC- motor flush and Redline Si-1. After soaking for only 1,5 hours on a warm engine, alot of crap came out as I used first compressed air to get rid off the excess fluid. After finally starting the car there was a strange smell in the exhaust, as it was to be expected. This cleaning process took place during the draining after using Motorspülung. After that I gathered up all of my remaining cans of 5W-40 and managed to get a full 3L to flush the remaining crap out.
After that was the time to pour in our equivalent of Xado Luxury Drive, Motox FullSyn RVS.
Been driving with it for 300km's now. Pretty much similiar experiences as janusz had with Xado.
Last but not least, the Primera managed to stay clean for one full day.
Sorry for the lack of photos. I was tired, It was cold and so on.
[ Dodano: 2017-02-25, 16:56 ]
Up again.
Today I had enough time to change the front shock's. The old ones we're absolutely destroyed. It took me 4 hours to do both sides. Would have been alot quicker if the previous mechanic would have had a clue what he was doing. Everything was tightened up with a 1 meter extension, my impact air gun had just enough punch to break them loose. The top link bushings are also gone, the rh- side link is pretty much stuck into one position, thanks to the previous owner...
New vs. old.
I used Magnum Technology shocks, Monroe dust cover kits, CS springs and Febi top mount bushings.
I know, the shocks are of a shitty brand. But come on, I got them for 15€ a pair!
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
I haven't visited your topic for a long time..... And what i see? Many changes Good job man.
The new spring coil suggest, that your car will be lower on front
You should be afraid, because I think about next gift for you
The new spring coil suggest, that your car will be lower on front
You should be afraid, because I think about next gift for you
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
Now that you guy's mentioned it, yeah, it looks hell of a lot shorter. The car actually sits a bit higher than at the beginning. I measured 40cm as the spring's lenght. Don't know about the original, they're on their way to get recycled. CS springs list that particular part number for every P11, except the Diesel models. So I think I'll manage. At least the car feels somewhat pleasant to drive now. If I could only find the time and the money to do the same thing to the rear end. I already have the shock's ready, just need new springs, top mounts, dust cover kit's, etc.... I should also dig into the problem with my Airbag light not illuminating at lall. Inspection is coming....
We have a saying in Finland, "a poor man takes better care of his belongings".
[ Dodano: 2017-03-04, 15:19 ]
Up.
After scratching me head to the point it started to hurt, I managed to solve the airbag light mystery. I did some measuring with the old combination meter, disassembled the new one and compared the readings with the old. Ta-daa, I found the problem!
The Zener- diode had been somehow shorted, so I just simply soldered off the part from the old meter and put it on the new meter.
And what do you know, the fucker is working now just like it should.
I am almost done collecting parts for the rear suspension overhaul. Springs and dust covers are still on their way. Magnum technology top mounts and KYB bushings.
Since it had been a bit warmer for the last couple of days I decided to wash the car, just for preventing the road salt and all the other shit from corroding it.
Time for a new filter perhaps?
Ps. Is anyone else having troubles with photobucket link codes?
[ Dodano: 2017-03-07, 13:43 ]
Got the emissions test done at a Nissan service while visiting my old hoods.
The car sat for about 15 minutes before the first test. The HC- levels we're at 130-180ppm. Way above approved level. Then the mechanic revved the engine at 4krpm for about 20 seconds to heat up the catalytic converter, here's the result. To be honest, I'm not happy at all with the results. Better dig in deeper. This is the main reason why I like to get the test done before the actual inspection, there's the chance of actually doing something to get the test passed. I think that the catalytic converter is on it's way out because of all the oil consumption issues. If I remember correctly, I saw an actual hole in the converter's monolith.
I also have plans to buy a new engine and rebuild it completely. I am starting to suspect that this one is not going to last for many years... I would have done it back in last summer, but since it would have required the removal of the transmission and the whole block from the car, I didn't bother. Not enough money or time.
[ Dodano: 2017-03-10, 16:00 ]
Up.
New rear shocks, top mounts & springs.
Inspection is coming and I decided that the rear shocks must be replaced also. After work I stayed at the factory and drove the car inside. I had reserved the whole day for the upcoming operation, because with the GX opening the top mount bolts took several hours. After I had finished both sides I took a look at the clock; 25 minutes for both sides Didn't even need any power tools. Now I'm afraid that something will go horribly wrong, since there were no problems with the actual swap. Of course I assembled the new shocks last night, so I could get away with it a bit quicker.
Here's an overall image just to show that the car sits abit higher than before. Alot more pleasant to drive when you won't have to sloww down to even a slight bump on the road.
Now I'm waiting for the post to bring me a new driver's side headlamp. Then it's off to the inspection.
[ Dodano: 2017-03-15, 16:33 ]
Up!
The long awaited headlight finally arrived this monday. Actually, it had already arrived last thursday, but since the finnish post has a habit of messing everything up, I didn't get it till monday.
Now the RH- side lamp looks a bit stupid with the LH- side being new and shiny... I tried to align both of them with the good old "drive against a wall"- method, but got frustrated and said to myself- "fuck it, if it fails, then it fails."
Well, today was the moment of truth... And it passed! Pretty much nothing to complain about, except that the ball joints are starting to show some wear, not much, but a little. The inspection engineer was even kind enough to help me align the headlights properly
Good enough for me.
Now I have time to focus on the bodywork etc.
We have a saying in Finland, "a poor man takes better care of his belongings".
[ Dodano: 2017-03-04, 15:19 ]
Up.
After scratching me head to the point it started to hurt, I managed to solve the airbag light mystery. I did some measuring with the old combination meter, disassembled the new one and compared the readings with the old. Ta-daa, I found the problem!
The Zener- diode had been somehow shorted, so I just simply soldered off the part from the old meter and put it on the new meter.
And what do you know, the fucker is working now just like it should.
I am almost done collecting parts for the rear suspension overhaul. Springs and dust covers are still on their way. Magnum technology top mounts and KYB bushings.
Since it had been a bit warmer for the last couple of days I decided to wash the car, just for preventing the road salt and all the other shit from corroding it.
Time for a new filter perhaps?
Ps. Is anyone else having troubles with photobucket link codes?
[ Dodano: 2017-03-07, 13:43 ]
Got the emissions test done at a Nissan service while visiting my old hoods.
The car sat for about 15 minutes before the first test. The HC- levels we're at 130-180ppm. Way above approved level. Then the mechanic revved the engine at 4krpm for about 20 seconds to heat up the catalytic converter, here's the result. To be honest, I'm not happy at all with the results. Better dig in deeper. This is the main reason why I like to get the test done before the actual inspection, there's the chance of actually doing something to get the test passed. I think that the catalytic converter is on it's way out because of all the oil consumption issues. If I remember correctly, I saw an actual hole in the converter's monolith.
I also have plans to buy a new engine and rebuild it completely. I am starting to suspect that this one is not going to last for many years... I would have done it back in last summer, but since it would have required the removal of the transmission and the whole block from the car, I didn't bother. Not enough money or time.
[ Dodano: 2017-03-10, 16:00 ]
Up.
New rear shocks, top mounts & springs.
Inspection is coming and I decided that the rear shocks must be replaced also. After work I stayed at the factory and drove the car inside. I had reserved the whole day for the upcoming operation, because with the GX opening the top mount bolts took several hours. After I had finished both sides I took a look at the clock; 25 minutes for both sides Didn't even need any power tools. Now I'm afraid that something will go horribly wrong, since there were no problems with the actual swap. Of course I assembled the new shocks last night, so I could get away with it a bit quicker.
Here's an overall image just to show that the car sits abit higher than before. Alot more pleasant to drive when you won't have to sloww down to even a slight bump on the road.
Now I'm waiting for the post to bring me a new driver's side headlamp. Then it's off to the inspection.
[ Dodano: 2017-03-15, 16:33 ]
Up!
The long awaited headlight finally arrived this monday. Actually, it had already arrived last thursday, but since the finnish post has a habit of messing everything up, I didn't get it till monday.
Now the RH- side lamp looks a bit stupid with the LH- side being new and shiny... I tried to align both of them with the good old "drive against a wall"- method, but got frustrated and said to myself- "fuck it, if it fails, then it fails."
Well, today was the moment of truth... And it passed! Pretty much nothing to complain about, except that the ball joints are starting to show some wear, not much, but a little. The inspection engineer was even kind enough to help me align the headlights properly
Good enough for me.
Now I have time to focus on the bodywork etc.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
I'm so happy, that your car passed the inspection without any trouble.
Your air filter is clean - yet, believe me.
I changed my air filter twice, when you had one interval change.
Your air filter is clean - yet, believe me.
I changed my air filter twice, when you had one interval change.
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
Well janusz, so am I.
This is by far the only filter I have ever seen to collect that much impurities. IMO, a good filter collects all the dirt, a bad filter lets it all through. So, If it would have been clean all the time, I would have been worried.
After the long and expensive battle to pass the inspection, I can now concentrate on other matters.
-Front brakes seem to be sticking from time to time. Might get an overhaul kit and new pads & discs.
-The gearstick seems to have either bad bushings or some other annoying issue, since it requires a bit more force sometimes.
-Top links need to be replaced. I first thought of just using PU- bushings, but since they are quite heavily corroded, I'm gonna replace them.
-Possibly a new battery.
-If I have enough time and money in the summer, I'm gonna replace the clutch and the rear main seal.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-05, 18:44 ]
Got tired of the sticking front brakes. Already replaced the slide pins, a bit better but still sticking. I bought new front calipers for both sides and hoses also. Will be replacing them this weekend, so pics will follow.
I have also taken a step forward in a little makeover of the interior...
[ Dodano: 2017-04-07, 19:00 ]
Today I managed to work a bit with the front brakes. I swapped the calipers to remanufactured ones, girling on the lh-side and brembo on the rh- side. I first thought of just replacing the seals myself, but after a second thought I got lazy and replaced the calipers. Just as a precaution I also replaced the brake hoses. I hope they would stop sticking now.
Right
Left
[ Dodano: 2017-04-08, 14:41 ]
After a test drive I confirmed that the brakes indeed have stopped sticking, but it seems that there's something wrong with the booster, it requires quite alot of force to stop the car. The system was bled properly, all the vacuum lines have been replaced, so the only culprit I can think of is the booster itself.
So, what car is to M215T mounted on, so that I can look for it on the local breaker? Does it require any other modifications to fit?
[ Dodano: 2017-04-08, 19:45 ]
Gave the Primera a proper wash and another TFC treatment.
At some point during this month I am going to pick up some parts for the interior.
This is by far the only filter I have ever seen to collect that much impurities. IMO, a good filter collects all the dirt, a bad filter lets it all through. So, If it would have been clean all the time, I would have been worried.
After the long and expensive battle to pass the inspection, I can now concentrate on other matters.
-Front brakes seem to be sticking from time to time. Might get an overhaul kit and new pads & discs.
-The gearstick seems to have either bad bushings or some other annoying issue, since it requires a bit more force sometimes.
-Top links need to be replaced. I first thought of just using PU- bushings, but since they are quite heavily corroded, I'm gonna replace them.
-Possibly a new battery.
-If I have enough time and money in the summer, I'm gonna replace the clutch and the rear main seal.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-05, 18:44 ]
Got tired of the sticking front brakes. Already replaced the slide pins, a bit better but still sticking. I bought new front calipers for both sides and hoses also. Will be replacing them this weekend, so pics will follow.
I have also taken a step forward in a little makeover of the interior...
[ Dodano: 2017-04-07, 19:00 ]
Today I managed to work a bit with the front brakes. I swapped the calipers to remanufactured ones, girling on the lh-side and brembo on the rh- side. I first thought of just replacing the seals myself, but after a second thought I got lazy and replaced the calipers. Just as a precaution I also replaced the brake hoses. I hope they would stop sticking now.
Right
Left
[ Dodano: 2017-04-08, 14:41 ]
After a test drive I confirmed that the brakes indeed have stopped sticking, but it seems that there's something wrong with the booster, it requires quite alot of force to stop the car. The system was bled properly, all the vacuum lines have been replaced, so the only culprit I can think of is the booster itself.
So, what car is to M215T mounted on, so that I can look for it on the local breaker? Does it require any other modifications to fit?
[ Dodano: 2017-04-08, 19:45 ]
Gave the Primera a proper wash and another TFC treatment.
At some point during this month I am going to pick up some parts for the interior.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
1st step to get better brakes was done. Now i'm waiting for next step.
If you want to swap brake booster to M215, you don't need any modification, it's plug&play
You should a little unscrew the bumper hood, because the right side of hood is a little lower than left side
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/ - nice presentation
On behalf of all users of Nissanzone, i would like to thank you, for sentence which you wrote in summary of presentation on the drive2.com.ru BIG THANKS
_
If you want to swap brake booster to M215, you don't need any modification, it's plug&play
You should a little unscrew the bumper hood, because the right side of hood is a little lower than left side
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/ - nice presentation
On behalf of all users of Nissanzone, i would like to thank you, for sentence which you wrote in summary of presentation on the drive2.com.ru BIG THANKS
_
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, The whole hood is bent, I've tried adjusting but with no luck. I actually found a M215T from a nearby breaker. It's from a X-Trail and costs only 40€. I'll pick it up once my holiday starts.
Mentioning you guys is the least I could do. By all means, the big thanks goes to all of you.
Mentioning you guys is the least I could do. By all means, the big thanks goes to all of you.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Ad@mus, Amen to that.
Seriously, this is the best Nissan forum I've ever seen. And it wouldn't be the way it is without all of you guys. It's the users and moderators who make the forum what it is. If I ever need to know something, this is the first place to ask. I feel like here's no room for bullshit and people take you seriously, instead of just pretending to be funny and and trying to piss people off. This is the thin line between Nissanzone.pl and others.
Btw. I have a dilemma. I decided that I should by new oil for the upcoming oil change. There are two options, both of them are on sale at the moment.
1. Nissan 5W-40 KE900-90042 ACEA A3/B4 API SL/CF 29,90€/5L
2. Comma Motorsport 5W-50 ACEA A3/B3 API SL/CF 27,90€/5L + a free 250ml can of injector cleaner
I've tried the first one, but only for about 1,5kkm, because I used it after the overhaul.
So, as the old expression goes, "I'm throwing the ball to the audience." Help me to decide!
[ Dodano: 2017-04-18, 12:28 ]
Nothing special has happened so far. I eventually ended uo buying a can of Comma 5W-50, just because I haven't tried it already.
Gave the car a proper wash + a TFC treatment last week. Because of all the dust in the air, I should do the whole thing again this week.
Today is the first day of my holiday (yay!!!), so I did some shopping.
40€ from a breaker 60km's from here. There were some available from a local breaker too, but since the owner is an asshole, I won't be doing business with him anymore.
Plans for the rest of the week:
-IF gods aren't against me, I will change the tires. Bought a new set of adapter rings for the TN3's.
-Replace the brake booster and it's vacuum hoses
-Pick up some interior parts. I have to borrow a trailer from my dad, so it takes a little planning.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-19, 04:33 ]
Done.
The difference is like night and day.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-21, 16:09 ]
Did a little shopping yesterday. Got some small parts that I've been needing for a long time, but never had the time or the money to get them.
The ventilator has a valve that is sealed by some kind of plastic foam. The actual foam had perished some time during its life. This caused an unpleasant effect of cold air blowing straight to your face in the winter. I swapped both of the nozzles and that seems to fix the problem.
Next, as a teaser of what is going to happen in the future:
Out with the old.
In with the new.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-26, 19:13 ]
The saga continues.
Last saturday I had some time to work a bit more with the interior. The donor car was a 1998 WP11 Si, so it had mechanical rear window lifters. I don't fancy the idea of having excess holes on my rear doors, so I thought it's time for a little DIY.
I carefully removed the cloths from the Si door cards. After that I machine washed them with a 30'C quick wash program and let them dry completely.
I purchased a 250ml can of BISON TIX contact glue. Good stuff, easy to apply, dries fast, but smells terrible.
It came with a applying tool.
Here you can see the original door card with the washed Si cloth.
The original cloth came off even more easily. I wonder if it was ever glued properly... Anyway, in this picture I have applied the glue to both surfaces. They must dry for 10-25 minutes, or until the glue doesn't stick to your fingers anymore.
The next step is the actual fitment. Now, patience is the word, since you only get one chance to fit it properly. The glue sticks instantly, so there's no further chances of fiddling the position.
RH- side door card ready.
And both of them installed.
Being loyal to my habits, I finally gave the car a wash.
The next day, after suffering the hangover of last night, I wen't to my childhood home and swapped the summer tires. I purchased new fitment rings for all 4 (Steyrtek 72,6/66,1)
The outcome looks something like this.
Well, nothing lasts forever. Especially nice weather in Finland. When I wen't to work this morning, It looked like this outside.
I think that summer has forgotten us completely...
[ Dodano: 2017-04-27, 17:52 ]
Next sunday it's time for some service again. I completed my arsenal today when I did a little shopping.
I also replaced this
With this
The old one was 14kkm/6 months old.
Motox has proved to be something I'm not willing to use anymore.
Seriously, this is the best Nissan forum I've ever seen. And it wouldn't be the way it is without all of you guys. It's the users and moderators who make the forum what it is. If I ever need to know something, this is the first place to ask. I feel like here's no room for bullshit and people take you seriously, instead of just pretending to be funny and and trying to piss people off. This is the thin line between Nissanzone.pl and others.
Btw. I have a dilemma. I decided that I should by new oil for the upcoming oil change. There are two options, both of them are on sale at the moment.
1. Nissan 5W-40 KE900-90042 ACEA A3/B4 API SL/CF 29,90€/5L
2. Comma Motorsport 5W-50 ACEA A3/B3 API SL/CF 27,90€/5L + a free 250ml can of injector cleaner
I've tried the first one, but only for about 1,5kkm, because I used it after the overhaul.
So, as the old expression goes, "I'm throwing the ball to the audience." Help me to decide!
[ Dodano: 2017-04-18, 12:28 ]
Nothing special has happened so far. I eventually ended uo buying a can of Comma 5W-50, just because I haven't tried it already.
Gave the car a proper wash + a TFC treatment last week. Because of all the dust in the air, I should do the whole thing again this week.
Today is the first day of my holiday (yay!!!), so I did some shopping.
40€ from a breaker 60km's from here. There were some available from a local breaker too, but since the owner is an asshole, I won't be doing business with him anymore.
Plans for the rest of the week:
-IF gods aren't against me, I will change the tires. Bought a new set of adapter rings for the TN3's.
-Replace the brake booster and it's vacuum hoses
-Pick up some interior parts. I have to borrow a trailer from my dad, so it takes a little planning.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-19, 04:33 ]
Done.
The difference is like night and day.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-21, 16:09 ]
Did a little shopping yesterday. Got some small parts that I've been needing for a long time, but never had the time or the money to get them.
The ventilator has a valve that is sealed by some kind of plastic foam. The actual foam had perished some time during its life. This caused an unpleasant effect of cold air blowing straight to your face in the winter. I swapped both of the nozzles and that seems to fix the problem.
Next, as a teaser of what is going to happen in the future:
Out with the old.
In with the new.
[ Dodano: 2017-04-26, 19:13 ]
The saga continues.
Last saturday I had some time to work a bit more with the interior. The donor car was a 1998 WP11 Si, so it had mechanical rear window lifters. I don't fancy the idea of having excess holes on my rear doors, so I thought it's time for a little DIY.
I carefully removed the cloths from the Si door cards. After that I machine washed them with a 30'C quick wash program and let them dry completely.
I purchased a 250ml can of BISON TIX contact glue. Good stuff, easy to apply, dries fast, but smells terrible.
It came with a applying tool.
Here you can see the original door card with the washed Si cloth.
The original cloth came off even more easily. I wonder if it was ever glued properly... Anyway, in this picture I have applied the glue to both surfaces. They must dry for 10-25 minutes, or until the glue doesn't stick to your fingers anymore.
The next step is the actual fitment. Now, patience is the word, since you only get one chance to fit it properly. The glue sticks instantly, so there's no further chances of fiddling the position.
RH- side door card ready.
And both of them installed.
Being loyal to my habits, I finally gave the car a wash.
The next day, after suffering the hangover of last night, I wen't to my childhood home and swapped the summer tires. I purchased new fitment rings for all 4 (Steyrtek 72,6/66,1)
The outcome looks something like this.
Well, nothing lasts forever. Especially nice weather in Finland. When I wen't to work this morning, It looked like this outside.
I think that summer has forgotten us completely...
[ Dodano: 2017-04-27, 17:52 ]
Next sunday it's time for some service again. I completed my arsenal today when I did a little shopping.
I also replaced this
With this
The old one was 14kkm/6 months old.
Motox has proved to be something I'm not willing to use anymore.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Again you made a lot of job in you old Primera. I like IT.
14tkm for your air filter is much enough. Looks like dirty bitch. And people says, that in Katowice and Kraków is shitt air for breathing
What can u say about Comma 5w50?
14tkm for your air filter is much enough. Looks like dirty bitch. And people says, that in Katowice and Kraków is shitt air for breathing
What can u say about Comma 5w50?
Sprzedam głowicę do SR20DE lowport po remoncie power up tuning madafaka
450zł-info w giełdzie i na PW
450zł-info w giełdzie i na PW
So far I've driven it for 1300km's and the engine seems to be a lot less noisy even when hot.
Here are a few pics of the process with captions.
LM flush going in.
After 6kkm's and 15 minutes of flushing the oil was pitch black. I've never drained anything like that from the engine.
This pretty much sums up my experiences. Don't bother buying this or anything by Eurol.
Old filter off.
Last one of these I'm buying.
Original installed.
We'll see how this one goes in the future. So far I'm pleased.
Here are a few pics of the process with captions.
LM flush going in.
After 6kkm's and 15 minutes of flushing the oil was pitch black. I've never drained anything like that from the engine.
This pretty much sums up my experiences. Don't bother buying this or anything by Eurol.
Old filter off.
Last one of these I'm buying.
Original installed.
We'll see how this one goes in the future. So far I'm pleased.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Up.
New bushings for the crossmember.
New fpr.
Havent had the time to install them yet, maybe next week. I'll also be picking up a new bonnet, RH- front door and GT- side skirts. If I have enough money, I'll buy the bumpers too.
Si front seats installed. They're not pretty, but they we're cheap.
[ Dodano: 2017-05-20, 08:01 ]
Some updates.
Radiator overflow was swapped to a cleaner one.
A while back I tested my fuel pressure and got quite low readings. Before I replace the pump again, I decided to swap the regulator. The engine seems to be a bit happier with this one.
Yesterday was a beautiful day. The sun was shining and we even broke the +20'C barrier. I drove to the countryside and decided to replace the crossmember bushings. Below are some pics of the parts. I used ramps for lifting the front end up.
[ Dodano: 2017-06-03, 15:49 ]
Up.
I wen't and bought some body parts a while ago. As I have mentioned, I'm planning to convert the car a bit closer to a GT.
I called a fellow Nissan- fanatic in Jyväskylä and arranged a deal for some parts.
Here I'm on my way back home. Stopped to buy some beer.
I bought a new RH- door. The old one was beginning to rot completely.
I also bought a new bonnet, since my current one has some dents and it's even a bit bent. This new one has some corrosion issues, I'll see what I can do about it.
Finally I found APO- colored GT- sills!
And a GT- bumper. Luckily janusz reminded me of the fact, that I also have to get the GT- inner mudguards in order to fit the bumper.
I decided to swap the RH- door right away.
Let me present you the automatic air conditioning of today!
The original door was otherwise in quite good condition.
Besides the fact, that it has some serious corrosion issues, and is only good in donating parts today.
New door installed. Notice the difference between the original APO- color and the re- painted one.
In direct sunlight the difference is obvious.
For a long time I've been seeking for a new fuel pump strainer. It isn't available as an OEM part, since the whole pump was sold as an assembly with everything attached to it. Luckily, I talked to a fellow Russian Primera driver, and managed to purchase one from Russia. I also acquired some other goods
[ Dodano: 2017-06-12, 18:06 ]
Don't know if anyone reads these anymore, but here's an update.
I had been experiencing issues with fuel pressure. I already replaced the pressure regulator and it helped a bit. Then I started to suspect the fuel pump itself. It was a Meat&Doria replaced nearly 70kkm ago. I know, what a piece of shit, but it was cheap and I needed a new pump, because the old one was about to die on me. I've been spending some time on the Russian drive2 community, and there I've seen alot of people installing a pump made by bosch. Depending on the source, experiences and opinions vary on that brand, but I've heard and read more good than bad. So I decided to go that way. I bought a bosch 0580454001 pump, which on paper is supposed to have a 110lph flow @ 3bar.
Right, the pump issue was settled then, but how about the strainer? Nissan does not even list a part number for it, since it was only available with the complete pump assembly. These things get clogged and fragile over time, so It's wise to replace them also. The only problem was, that where the hell would I be able to buy one? Every link pointed to our eastern neighbours, so I had to turn to them for help. And help i got. So, for anyone looking for a new inlet strainer, the proper part number is Patron HS110007. It's a direct fit and it reaches to the bottom of the pump housing, just like the OEM one.
Here are a few pics of the swap process. Everyone know's how to do it, so I guess there's no need to explain everything.
Starting the disassembly
2 years and almost 70kkm old Meat&Doria with the original strainer. Don't buy these, they're shit.
Traces of metal and some crap. Propably from the cheap pump itself.
New Bosch 0580454001 pump with the Patron HS110007 strainer going in.
After 16 minutes I was back to square one. I reserved the whole evening for this, so I had plenty of time for a proper test drive. The difference was like night and day.
More to follow.
[ Dodano: 2017-06-13, 17:57 ]
I also solved the wiper linkage issue once and for all. Didn't want to pay 140€ for two new links that are going to be in terrible condition sooner or later. So I searched for P10 links, since they are direct fit and made of all metal.
They were 25€ a piece, so I could call this one a bargain!
As for every aftermarket component, it's always recommendable to check how well they are greased. These links had almost no grease at all.
After greasing them properly, it was time for the swap. Everyone knows how it's done, so I'll post just the pictures.
New bushings for the crossmember.
New fpr.
Havent had the time to install them yet, maybe next week. I'll also be picking up a new bonnet, RH- front door and GT- side skirts. If I have enough money, I'll buy the bumpers too.
Si front seats installed. They're not pretty, but they we're cheap.
[ Dodano: 2017-05-20, 08:01 ]
Some updates.
Radiator overflow was swapped to a cleaner one.
A while back I tested my fuel pressure and got quite low readings. Before I replace the pump again, I decided to swap the regulator. The engine seems to be a bit happier with this one.
Yesterday was a beautiful day. The sun was shining and we even broke the +20'C barrier. I drove to the countryside and decided to replace the crossmember bushings. Below are some pics of the parts. I used ramps for lifting the front end up.
[ Dodano: 2017-06-03, 15:49 ]
Up.
I wen't and bought some body parts a while ago. As I have mentioned, I'm planning to convert the car a bit closer to a GT.
I called a fellow Nissan- fanatic in Jyväskylä and arranged a deal for some parts.
Here I'm on my way back home. Stopped to buy some beer.
I bought a new RH- door. The old one was beginning to rot completely.
I also bought a new bonnet, since my current one has some dents and it's even a bit bent. This new one has some corrosion issues, I'll see what I can do about it.
Finally I found APO- colored GT- sills!
And a GT- bumper. Luckily janusz reminded me of the fact, that I also have to get the GT- inner mudguards in order to fit the bumper.
I decided to swap the RH- door right away.
Let me present you the automatic air conditioning of today!
The original door was otherwise in quite good condition.
Besides the fact, that it has some serious corrosion issues, and is only good in donating parts today.
New door installed. Notice the difference between the original APO- color and the re- painted one.
In direct sunlight the difference is obvious.
For a long time I've been seeking for a new fuel pump strainer. It isn't available as an OEM part, since the whole pump was sold as an assembly with everything attached to it. Luckily, I talked to a fellow Russian Primera driver, and managed to purchase one from Russia. I also acquired some other goods
[ Dodano: 2017-06-12, 18:06 ]
Don't know if anyone reads these anymore, but here's an update.
I had been experiencing issues with fuel pressure. I already replaced the pressure regulator and it helped a bit. Then I started to suspect the fuel pump itself. It was a Meat&Doria replaced nearly 70kkm ago. I know, what a piece of shit, but it was cheap and I needed a new pump, because the old one was about to die on me. I've been spending some time on the Russian drive2 community, and there I've seen alot of people installing a pump made by bosch. Depending on the source, experiences and opinions vary on that brand, but I've heard and read more good than bad. So I decided to go that way. I bought a bosch 0580454001 pump, which on paper is supposed to have a 110lph flow @ 3bar.
Right, the pump issue was settled then, but how about the strainer? Nissan does not even list a part number for it, since it was only available with the complete pump assembly. These things get clogged and fragile over time, so It's wise to replace them also. The only problem was, that where the hell would I be able to buy one? Every link pointed to our eastern neighbours, so I had to turn to them for help. And help i got. So, for anyone looking for a new inlet strainer, the proper part number is Patron HS110007. It's a direct fit and it reaches to the bottom of the pump housing, just like the OEM one.
Here are a few pics of the swap process. Everyone know's how to do it, so I guess there's no need to explain everything.
Starting the disassembly
2 years and almost 70kkm old Meat&Doria with the original strainer. Don't buy these, they're shit.
Traces of metal and some crap. Propably from the cheap pump itself.
New Bosch 0580454001 pump with the Patron HS110007 strainer going in.
After 16 minutes I was back to square one. I reserved the whole evening for this, so I had plenty of time for a proper test drive. The difference was like night and day.
More to follow.
[ Dodano: 2017-06-13, 17:57 ]
I also solved the wiper linkage issue once and for all. Didn't want to pay 140€ for two new links that are going to be in terrible condition sooner or later. So I searched for P10 links, since they are direct fit and made of all metal.
They were 25€ a piece, so I could call this one a bargain!
As for every aftermarket component, it's always recommendable to check how well they are greased. These links had almost no grease at all.
After greasing them properly, it was time for the swap. Everyone knows how it's done, so I'll post just the pictures.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
Hehe, something from Poland again
Small difference - you changed a bumper Difference in shape and height.
I'm waiting for the next photo of mods
Small difference - you changed a bumper Difference in shape and height.
I'm waiting for the next photo of mods
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
janusz, I haven't had time yet to change the bumper. It needs to be painted and I must find the GT mudguards first.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
If you find 2 sets of front mudflaps to GT version, please give me info. I try to find it, to my car.
赤い 霊 czyli 日産プリメーラP11GT -> viewtopic.php?t=12560
pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
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pije by paść ...
... padam by wstać ...
... wstaje by pić ...
... pije by żyć
_
I will keep my eyes open. My annual holiday begins next month and I'm planning to start it with renewing the Primeras rust protection completely.janusz pisze:If you find 2 sets of front mudflaps to GT version, please give me info. I try to find it, to my car.
https://www.drive2.com/r/nissan/470523357796762534/
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold
VAZ 21013 - summer car
P11 SE SR20DEH AP0 - current
P11 GT SR20DE KH3 - for spare parts
P11 GX SR20De AJ4 - sold
P10 LX SR20Di AG2 - sold