[ Primera] P11-120 SE SR20DEH

[janusz]

The rocker cover gaskets are leaking.

I said you - use a silicone

Still, no oil consumption.

Strange feeling

Radioator - hmmmm i know it, but i can't remember....... Oh i remember, Zielkq had the same malfunction. Nissens - good choice

Oil - also good choice, oil filter - like before.

[PrzeRuSco]

By crumbling upper inlet in the radiator almost burned ex-bomblowóz (SR20VE + T) Fortunately they could quench. Glycol + turbine = fire

pisałem translatorem może ktoś to lepiej napisze
Przez kruszący się górny wlot w chłodnicy prawie spalił się były bomblowóz (SR20VE+T) na szczecie zdążyli ugasić. Glikol + turbina = pożar

[Totenkopf]

janusz, The gasket is way too small to seal properly even with silicone. I had to stretch it a little bit in order to hold it in the rocker cover groove! After doing some research the Reinz gasket does not even cross reference to the OE number. That might eplain the whole thing. Wonder why they even added the wrong gasket to the set. I'll get new gaskets to it and apply some silicone. If it still decides to leak I think I'll just stop caring about it.

PrzeRuSco, Last winter the original radiator leaked from every possible place it could. Only when the temperature warmed up from -35'C to -20'C it stopped leaking.

[Zielkq]

janusz, Totenkopf, yes, I was in the same situation...

viewtopic.php?p=364407#364407

But after it, I use a used radiator from CD20

[janusz]

This red something, isn't coolant liquid, it's silicone It had to withstand 2-3 km, and almost withstood

[Zielkq]

janusz, this red something is your signature...

[Totenkopf]

Zielkq, I also planned to get a Diesel version radiator, but could not find one cheap enough or in good condition. The climate here changes alot and the use of road salt in winter corrodes everything aggressively. I planned to get a thermotec one, since it appeared to be 22mm thick instead of the original 16mm. Wonder you didn't clogg up anything with that "patent"

Now I am planning to either purchase a oil pressure tester gauge (a kit which comes with different adapters) or install a mechanical gauge under the hood. I don't fancy any aftermarket gauges inside the car. Why? Because I am paranoid when it comes to matters like compression pressure, oil pressure etc. Everything has to be tip-top. Also the warning light being the only instrument to monitor oil pressure is very stupid. It takes only 0,2bar to turn off that lamp, the FSM minimum pressure when hot at idle is 0,78bar. So if the lamp goes on it's already too late.

[ Dodano: 2016-08-22, 15:00 ]
Howdy.

It's been a while, mainly because I am back at work and therefore don't have so much time to work with the Primera. Even though I am extremely short of cash, I have manages to purchase parts to keep the project alive.

Last friday I borrowed a DIY fuel pressure tester from my colleaque at work and here are the results.

At idle, vacuum connected:


At idle, vacuum disconnected:


I am not at all happy with the results. Good ole' FSM says that the pressure with vacuum should be 2,4kg/cm2 and with vacuum disconnected 3,0kg/cm2. I got 2,15kg/cm2 and 2,9kg/cm2. So, I guess I'll be ordering a new fuel filter and measure the pressure again. If that's no good, then maybe a new fuel pump. The current one is a Meat&Doria which I got extremely cheap.

I just picked the rest of my new enfine mounts from the post office. I also ordered a transmission control rod bushing.

Rod bushing


Rear mount


Transmission mount


And finally my co-mechanic inspecting all the mounts


As soon as I have enough time I will replace all of those.

[janusz]

Totenkopf, lower pressure - three options. One of them - the fuel pump ends its life, second - fuel pressure regulator, and third - fuel filter.

Engine mounts - full rubber or rubber-oil?

The problem with the change gear - clearances on shift control rod - properly on the plastic cross shift control rod. The clearances you can remove if you'll use can after beer (after others drinks you also can use)

[Totenkopf]

janusz, I really hope it is just the filter, since I have used quite alot of injector cleaner.

The mounts are exactly like oem, the passenger side and transmission mounts are hydraulic and the crossmember mounts are solid rubber.

About that linkage bushing, I am planning to machine brand new bushings from nylon, since mine i a bit worn. Of course it has to be a beer can, no other beverages are allowed

[bombel]

Totenkopf, is it ok to put your's car photos on our Facebook page? We want to show that we cooperate with NISSAN fans from the whole Europe

[Totenkopf]

bombel, It's ok to me, but I don't want to show my license plates on facebook.

[ Dodano: 2016-08-28, 15:24 ]
Up!

Yesterday I had the chance to work with the Primera. I replaced all the engine mounts and the rocker cover gasket. WARNING!: DO NOT order anything from the german Autodoc- webshop, or any other shop that works in the same address! They sell quality parts for ridiculously low prices. When you order and pay for a quality part (as an example, elring 056.410 rocker cover gasket) you are most likely to get a part of a shitty brand of their own - STARK. This brand has got no websites at all and the business is registered in the same address as the autodoc shop. Funny isn't it? They are most likely made in China and just repackaged in germany.

I didn't take more pictures of the rocker cover gasket replacement, but this one is taken while cleaning the mating surfaces. This time I used silicone allover the mating surfaces and it has not shown any signs of leaking - yet.


The next job was the engine mounts and transmission support bushing. I was prepared to spend the night in the garage, if necessary, but I finished up pretty quick.

The passenfer side mount was totally gone, no wonder the whole thing seemed to vibrate like hell.




The transmission support was the hardest one, had to disassemble quite alot. Lucky me, no bolts were stuck so it was pretty straight forward.

The old one


And new one


The crossmember mounts were also gone, the front one was the worst.

Front, you can clearly see it splitting.


And rear. This had also visible splits.


New shiny parts going in. Front mount.


And rear mount. I honestly don't know the point of that stupid rubber flap, but decided to install it still.


Managed to install the cross member quite easily, only needed a floor jack to support it while I inserted the four mounting bolts.

Front one in place


And the rear one. I also replaced the transmission support bushing.


The old bushing actually seemed quite good, but decided to replace it anyway.


Was it worth it? Yes and no. The car seems to be alot more stable and is alot less jerky. I think that I am still going to install poly bushings in the old crossmember mounts and install them. I can actually feel the whole car bouncing a bit when I start the engine Time to get working on the suspension then. Really looking forward to next wednesday, because it's my pay day.

[janusz]

This time I used silicone allover the mating surfaces and it has not shown any signs of leaking - yet.

Good decision

Condition of engine mounts - i can say - quite good Maybe transaxle bush is a little destroy. This little splits - it's nothing

On photo i see a bandage on the exhaust system - hmmm maybe say something more

[Totenkopf]

janusz, The heat wrap is there to prevent the exhaust from cooling down before the main catalysator. I used to have the original heat shield, but after replacing the flex pipe, I could not fit it anymore. The wrap allows the catalysator to heat up more efficiently and quickly -> better values on the smog test Sometimes the wrap smells terrible after driving on the highway for a while, but you'll get used to that.

Next time I'll be replacing the fuel filter and measuring the fuel pressure again.

[ Dodano: 2016-09-07, 15:19 ]
Time for a update.

Pay day is done and dusted, managed to purchase some goods. I replaced the fuel filter but haven't re-measured the pressure yet. Will do that after I am done with my other project.

New KL171 installed


I have planned for a long time to buy a set of new injectors whenever I manage to get them cheap enough. I spotted an ad on a finnish forum selling OEM Bosch 0280155798 injectors for only 35 euros (shipping included). That was cheap enough for me. I got them this monday and decided to clean them first on my crappy chinese ultrasonic cleaner.

At least the surface got cleaned.


Next I took off the filter baskets. Two of them were partially clogged, so I ordered a set of new filters and O-rings from ebay. By the way, don't bother buying injector O-rings from Nissan. They will cost you a fortune. I got mine from ebay with only 13€ + shipping (filters included).


Then bought some connectors to test them. I used a 9V battery to test them at first.




After removing the filters I wanted to see how they flow. I didn't actually measure anything, just checked that the spray pattern was identical in all four and they we're not leaking. I built a simple testing device with a pump bottle, a 12V led converter, some fuel hose and two clamps.

Voilá






The idea is that you pressurize the injector first and then "snap" it several times with the positive (or negative, doesn't matter) lead to check the spray pattern. I used industrial alcohol (Industol PE-2 which is 88.3%) as my cleaning/testing fluid.

Anyway, they all seemed to flow nicely enough for me to replace my current ones with them.

Another thing that I discovered last night while reading a russian blog was how to properly adjust the AAC- valve. It has a spring that weakens over time and the valve does not close completely. The fix is to remove the seal below the idle adjust screw and screw the hidden plastic screw inwards to tighten the spring. After that you seal the adjust screw again with plastic padding, or whatever product you prefer.

Don't mind the adjust screw, I nearly destroyed it while removing the old paste.


After adjustmend the valve remains shut when disabled (tps disconnected etc.).

[janusz]

I read on your Finnish forum, that you want to buy those injectors And you did it.
9V battery - the worst and most expensive battery. This battery is good to micropower circuit, but CR2032 is much better
Connectors on cables - hmmm i'm impressed. Ehhhh i'm too lazy for this.


Many time ago, i wanted to remove this paste and i check what is under it. Now i know, i must buy AAC- valve and check, what cat have in belly.

[Totenkopf]

Up.

Replaced the injectors. So far I've noticed that the car seems to idle more steadily. I used to vibrate like hell with the old injectors and new engine mounts. Not anymore. Also I noticed that cylinders No.1 and 4 had been running lean based on what the spark plugs looked like. The ecu had tried to compensate that by richening the mixture and cylinders 2 and 3 had been running stupidly rich. So there must have been some restrictions on injectors No. 1 and 4 since they were running lean. This also explains why my engine oil got so thin and seemed to just vaporate through the pcv. Excess gasoline washed the oil film on the cylinder bore and got mixed with engine oil. I lost approx. 300ml in about 1800km's. Should have gotten into it sooner, but you cannot achieve much without money and time.
I really hope this hasn't caused any serious issues, since I cannot even imagine doing the whole thing allover again. Time will tell.

Out with the old.


In with the "new".


[ Dodano: 2016-10-15, 13:52 ]
Dear diary.

I've fixed several issues (or at least hope so, time will tell) on my car.

1. TPS

I've always noticed that the car seems to stumble sometimes when accelerating and it seemed to be related to the position of the throttle plate. TPS voltage seemed to be ok (0,46v closed -> 4,2V WOT) and there were no dramatic changes while opening the throttle in voltage. I still decided to replace the sensor with a new one.

Since everything is cheaper in Estonia than in Finland, I ordered my sensor from there. Behold, the mighty Blue Print ADN17209:


And here it it installed:


Did it help? It was like night and day! The car seems to accelerate better from lower rpm's and it responses way better to throttle.

Ever since I bought this car I have had to struggle with leaking valve cover gaskets. No matter how carefully I torqued it or how much silicone I would use, it would eventually start leaking sooner or later. And always from the same spot. After nearly losing me nerves when trying to figure out why oh why it has to leak all the time I decided to try a different approach. Everyone knows that the cover bolts aren't threaded all the way. So the only thing that actually allows it to torque down are the washers with rubber grommets. They seem to harden and crush over the years. So, what did I do? I simply drilled a 9mm hole to a M8 washer and added one under each bolt. Now the gasket seems to seat much better. I have only driven 15km's with the new Elring 056.410, so I will report back to you guys it it starts leaking.

Here you can see the worst leaking spot.


Cleaning the surfaces.


My "patent".


Ready to go. Sorry about the bad quality images. Not enough light.

[janusz]

Totenkopf, i'll find you oem TPS, and i'll add it to shipping Like Dirko HT

Pad under the screw - hmmmm i know this patent

[Totenkopf]

janusz, I don't think I'll be needing that anymore.

1400km's since the replacement of injectors and not a single drop of oil is lost!
Measured compression today, it seems to have improved alot, 13,49kg/cm2 in every cylinder. No heavy carbon build ups, I checked the combustion chamber with my borescope. I could say that the rings are sealing well enough.

[howard512]

Totenkopf , You killed me and Janusz with sentense about relations injectors condition to oil comsumption.
At first we thought that it was a nonsense, but after the longer thought, but on more long deliberation we began to combine and think, that has it some more deep reasonable meaning.
If injector cannot to give a appropriate haze the part of gasoline entering by the rings and will cause, that oil in this place will lose stickiness and more easily it will be received to the combustion chamber.
Therefore – it " disappears”.
Was your way of thinking similar?
By you I will not be able today quietly to sleep , but tomorrow engine will have first dyno run after rebuild. But so sincerely, Thanks for a advice

My SR20 as before " beloved” oil.
I must check injectors.

I can still add, that at me does not have smallest problems with low turns,
AFR is OK, the expenditure of fuel also OK, also acceleration

Janusz odpala w tym momencie translator

[Totenkopf]

howard512, You are on the right tracks.

The injectors control the amount of fuel flow by being open for a certain amount of time. ECU varies this open- time to obtain a needed fuel mixture. It uses the O2 sensor as a feedback when the engine is running in closed loop- mode. If a injector has restrictions, it does not flow enough and develops a lean mixture in the particular cylinder it feeds. Now the O2 sensor sees this situation and starts to read a bit more lean. The ECU compensates this by increasing the on- time of all of the injectors which causes a rich fuel mixture to the remaining cylinders. The clogged injector has reached it's flow limit so the mixture remains lean in that particular cylinder. You can actually tell this by looking at your spark plugs.

So there you have it. It's basicly all in the FSM. This is how fuel gets into the engine oil. It becomes diluted and vaporizes through the PCV- valve back into the intake manifold and burns in the combustion chamber. It does not take much for this to happen. Cleaners added to the fuel may help a little, but the only accurate way is to measure the flow of each injector professionally.

[Ad@mus]

Oczywiście, popsuty wtryskiwacz to nic dobrego dla silnika.
Sposób na redukcję konsumpcji oleju to zalanie silnika nie dobrym olejem, niektóre oleje są tak złe, że silnik nie chce spalać oleju

ps. mi silnik nie pobiera oleju

[Totenkopf]

Ad@mus, Neither does mine anymore. You cannot really compare our cars since I live in a muh colder climate and drive alot of short distances (don't know about your situation) so the risk of oil thinning still exists. As an example my trip to work is only 15km in one way. The weather here gets as cold as -35'C in the winter. The engine runs extremely rich in such temperatures and oil does not get hot enough in 15km's to vaporate any moisture. So it is not uncommon to lose some oil once the engine oil gets to full operating temperature. I could try experimenting different brands of oil, but since everything is really expensive here, including gasoline (98 octane is 1,45-1,51€/L), I can think of better ways to spend my money.

[Ad@mus]

Temperature climate has a significant effect on the engine and type of oil. For example, tables of Japanese manuals provide oil 0W30 for SR20DE. As for reheating engine with us in Poland is an old method used by our fathers. It's about obscure the radiator to half carton in the winter motor is then quickly warm up to the opening of the thermostat will test Maybe this way for years because he was reliable.
Once with us in Poland also prevailed so cold winters.
The way to thin the oil is its frequent replacement of what they say producers of oil, difficult operating conditions require an oil change every 5,000 km-as given in the specifications GULF. Described the difficult conditions do not apply to the filming of the engine to high speed, this term also talks about short distances, driving in the city, as well as adverse climatic conditions.

What if you change the oil, buddy? How often?

[Totenkopf]

I know about the carton. I even use a Calix electric block heater (Defa is the most popular brand). Some people even use Webasto or Eberspächer. The engine oil takes a lot longer to warm up properly than coolant. At -35 in my case, less than 15 minutes of driving is not enough. Of course I take a bit longer trips every now and then.

I usually change my oil every 5-7,5kkm, in the summer less often. I know about the specifications. There is also the fact that most of the 0W-30 and even 5W-30 oils are either ACEA C2/C3 or ACEA A5, which aren't so good to a older engine. Why? I recommend that you figure it out yourself, the risk of misunderstanding is too big for me to start writing about it. I bet there is information about it in polish too.

[ Dodano: 2016-10-21, 18:45 ]
I was going to post results of my measurements about my engine, but since photobucket seems to be down, I cannot. Damn.

As a matter of fact none of the pictures hosted there seem to be working.

[ Dodano: 2016-10-22, 10:03 ]
Photobucket is up again.

I like to check my engines compression, vacuum and leakdown on a regular basis, just to see where I'm at.

I've tried about 5 different testers. Only the last one has proved to be reliable. It does not leak and it seems to be accurate, at least when compared to the cheaper models. I also have one digital meter, but the pressure hose is broken.

So here we go.

Cylinder 1.


Cylinder 2.


Cylinder 3.


Cylinder 4.


You can think whatever you want, but I'm more than happy with the results. I'm going to do a leakdown test later, if I can either make a new adapter for it or figure out how to get a proper seal with the old one.

Just for comparison, I also measured my vacuum trough the brake booster port. And oldschool method, but gives you alot of information about what's going on.


I have also been trying to figure out some electrical issues, mainly voltage drops. You remember the fuel pressure test results? After investigating I decided to check the voltage the fuel pump is getting.

Pump connector voltage.


Battery terminal voltage.


I have already sorted out a few bad ground connection issues, will be checking the rest of them when I get the chance.

[janusz]

Compression - better than in new engine I wonder if the new engine had similar results.
I must check compression in my engine, but i don't have time......
About trouble with voltage we have already talked.

[Totenkopf]

janusz, The 185psi/13kg/cm2/12,75bar value in the FSM is actually just a sample that Nissan had measured from an actual working engine by a certain type of compression tester. So I think that new engines had at least that, or even better. I'm not really concerned about the actual final pressure (as long as it is within specs, haha), but from the difference between all 4. Like I said, I will be doing a leakdown test as soon as I have the time to do it.

I've been driving with the Hakkapeliitta 8's since saturday.


And today it has been pretty much like this since noon. We have a saying in Finland; "Winter surprised the driver", because every fucking year some idiot decides to try his (or hers) luck with summer tires when it starts to snow. Well, winter has come pretty much every year since the dawn of time, so I'm not so surprised when it comes.


[ Dodano: 2016-10-25, 20:54 ]

[janusz]

"Winter surprised the driver"

In Poland situation is different. The 90% drivers is ready to winter conditions. Road Administration (GDDKiA) also says, that they are ready to winter conditions. But reality is (like every year) the same - snow begins to fall and through first 5-6 hours, you'll not see any snow-plow.
So we say "Winter surprised road administration"

I must admit, that you've got "nose", and you know, when to change the tire

Do something with ABS lamp - remove it

[Zielkq]

"Winter surprised road administration"

Hm.... I don't like it...

Do something with ABS lamp - remove it

or use a black power tape

[Totenkopf]

"Winter surprised road administration"

Hm.... I don't like it...

Do something with ABS lamp - remove it

or use a black power tape

Here it's the other way round. As soon they even start to think it's gonna snow, there are trucks spreading road salt everywhere

Just as soon as I have the time and money, I will construct a converter to deal with that matter. It needs to be functioning properly in order to pass the inspection.

[ Dodano: 2016-11-05, 19:34 ]
Nothing special, just a regular service for the winter.



The old air filter has even been "cleaned" twice, it used to be alot dirtier. It had seen 40kkm's of finnish dust.


Flush going in.


Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 after 7.5kkm's and Liqui Moly Proline Motorspülung. I've seen dirtier oils. I used some Mobil Super S 10W-40 after the flush to remove any leftovers. I haven't been able to find any proper flushing oils that you have, so I think I'll just buy a can of mineral or semi-synthetic oil from now on.


I'm planning to install somekind of a pipe or a hose to that drain hole. Getting tired of the oil stains.


[ Dodano: 2016-11-06, 13:14 ]
Had enough time today to wash the Primera. It has been -7'C for the last two days and it's only getting colder. We have about 4cm's of snow.

[Zielkq]

The old air filter has even been "cleaned" twice, it used to be alot dirtier. It had seen 40kkm's of finnish dust.

Ou! The air in Poland is dirter than the air in Finland... I can say that your old filter is claner then my after 4kkm...

Regular servis before winter is a very good idea - I'm going to the post office - my oil GULF 5w40 is waiting form me (since yesterday).

[Totenkopf]

Zielkq, Well, that's what you get for driving without catalytic converters

It just started to snow like hell here. I noticed a faint smell of something burning when I parked my car. I immedietly went to take a look under the bonnet. And what did I find? The lower radiator hose is leaking - again. It lasted for the whole fucking summer without any leaks, but just when the weather get's cold enough, it starts to leak. I could think of better ways to spend 80 euros (seriously, that's what they told me at the local Nissan dealership!) than for a new hose. I'll try to tighten up the clamp a bit first, but when I think about last winter I had the exactly same issue, tightening did pretty much nothing. Time will tell.

The japanese HP11 seems to have the exact same radiator hose as a 2000-2002 G20. Ebay seems to have those for pretty cheap. Even with the shipping costs the price remains lower than for the original part.