[ Primera] P11-120 SE SR20DEH

[Michal_M66]

Totenkopf, How much does all those reanimations of engine did costed you? Well I must admit I am quite impressed

[Totenkopf]

Michal_M66, If I remember correctly, the parts only were about 550€ including liquid gaskets etc. I also had to purchase a few tools. If I would have bought the parts from a finnish Nissan dealership, they would have cost me AT LEAST 1500€.

Was it worht it? Don't know, but at least I've tried.
I have now driven the car for a bit under 600km's and it still seems to be going strong. I think I'll measure the oil pressure some day, the engine seems a bit noisy at idle when hot. Although I bled the lifters properly, it's still the same. Also opened up the oil pump and the rotors didn't show any signs of wear.

There's also an issue, if you can call it that, with compression pressure. It seems to have come down slightly when compared to what it was before the overhaul. Now I'm measuring about 12,6-13kg/cm2 when it used to between 13,10-13,20kg/cm2 before. Of course the Prima- piston rings differ slightly from OEM, mainly because of the napier- type second compression ring. I have heard that the napier type ring is designed mainly for scraping off oil, which might cause some blowby. Also, I think (or at least hope) that the rings can seat better over time and seal more efficiently. The absence of carbon deposits also has it's affect. As long as it stops consuming oil, I'm happy with it.

Now I've been planning my next move - replacing all the engine mounts. I am getting tired of all the vibrating and the jerking while accelerating or decelerating. The only problem seems to be getting them cheap enough. There are loads of different option out there, but I am not sure from most of them that are they hydraulic ones, or just plain rubber. After that I'm focusing on the suspension. Might even add a new layer of underbody sealant for the winter.

[janusz]

Totenkopf, the cause of higher compression before overhaul is fact, that the oil, which was not scraped off by the piston rings generate extra seal.
In my engine i had the same situation

HLA - i hope, that you removed HLA from head, drained old oil, and filled new.

[Totenkopf]

janusz, as you can see in one pf my pictures, the HLA's were indeed removed, cleaned and bled.

[janusz]

Totenkopf, sorry, I haven't noticed description, where you cleaned hla.

You hear, that your engine is noisy and something is wrong. Maybe you've got something similar like Ad@mus or me - you hear something what doesn't exist, and you try to find hole in whole?

[Totenkopf]

janusz, It's not too noisy, but when compared to what I have seen on youtube, It seems to be quite loud. Definetly not rod knock, since there are brand new bearings now. I'll measure the oil pressure when I have the chance, just for my peace of mind. Of course, things sound very different in real life than in youtube videos.

[falbinho]

Podziwiam kolegę po tych zdj :O

[janusz]

Falbinho, try to write in english

[Pawel18PL]

Totenkopf, about engine mounts good solution to eliminate vibrations from acceleriation is to change two bottom mounts to poliurethane ones. Rest of them (from gearbox and timming) change to new oem. Is is acceptable compromise between handling and comfort. Greetings

[Totenkopf]

Pawel18PL, I have thought of that. I have also read from several forums about more vibrations being transmitted by front and rear poly mounts. I think I'll replace them with oem ones first and think about the poly ones later. After all this is my daily driver so I would like to keep some comfort.

[Pawel18PL]

Sure it is your choice From my expirience I can tell You that 4 poliurethane mounts are dedicated only for sport or suicide daily drivers, but with two bottow comfort will be very near to oem

[Totenkopf]

Pawel18PL, I will keep that in mind, thanks.

[Ad@mus]

Falbinho, try to write in english

Podziwiam kolegę po tych zdj :O

Może kolega z zagrabanicy naumie się ponglishu No bo cóż, że ze Kuopio hahaha

[Totenkopf]

Koitetaan pojat pysyä siinä englannissa I find it funny because even google translator has no idea what you guys are saying

[Zielkq]

Totenkopf, Ad@mus use his local "polish". Don't worry

[Ad@mus]

Totenkopf, i know saab, volvo, scania and many others scandinavian words

OK EOT, i think that you made a lot of goods witch your car.
You show that man is learning in all of his own life.

i am in shock, whoat you say abot comma oils Expensive ?
Just look for good fully synthetic oil, no comercial brand, and it will be best solution.

I think also, that scandinavian oils are blended in high quality norm. And are better than ours Polish shit

[Totenkopf]

Ad@mus, Depending on viscosity, a 5 liter can of comma costs here between 37 and 57 euros. And it's not too popular here. I've been trying to find the comma flushing oil from here, but with no results. Everything is really expensive since the markets are very small. Some plages sell the same products a bit cheaper than others, but the pricing is still quite high. Liqui moly seems to be the most expensive brand here.

Most of finnish people are really keen on Mobil 1, since all their oils sold here are made in Finland. I have good experiences with shell helix ultra, it really does its job with cleaning the engine. Some people think that an engine oil is good if it does not darken for a long time after oil change. I would say that the oil is not doing it's job then. What kind of pricing do you have with oils?

[Pawel18PL]

For coma ~20,25 euros, cheapest oils from markets like tesco can be even below 10 euros per 4l. Take in to consideration that due to difference between place of procurement quality of the same fluids can be different. I heard a lot of cheated motul oils in Poland, and I won`t be supprised if there will be difference in quality of Mobil 1 in Poland and Finland

[janusz]

I saw and heard engines which worked on Castrol from Germany, and also i saw engines which worked on Castrol from Poland. The difference were huge.
In Poland the most popular oils are counterfeit - Castrol, Moblil, Valvo, Motul, Elf, Total.

Totenkopf, Shell doing good oils. I used to use Shell Helix HX7 10W40

Comma Syner G 5W40 1L - circa 8-10 euro

[Totenkopf]

janusz, sounds fair enough. The only problem is that you cannot buy it in Finland. Even their website doesn't list any dealers here.

[janusz]

In Kuopio you've 2 dealers Liqui Moly - what's more - to one of them you've 10min by foot. To second of them - 20-30min also by foot

[Totenkopf]

janusz, I know, the first one is next to my grocery store. You would really have to run to get to the second one in 30 minutes, there are quite a lot of traffic lights. The second store is also ridiculously expensive and they never have anything in stock. This is also the case for LM oils at the moment. It's always frustrating to go there since the dealers usually have no idea what they are doing and always try to offer you the wrong parts. They all use the autodoc system which seems to offer same parts for P11-120 and P11-144. I usually tell them the original part number so they can cross reference it.

I am getting close to 1kkm after the overhaul, so I think I'll be changing the oil soon. I'll go to the parts store tomorrow to see what they have to offer.

[ Dodano: 2016-07-29, 13:21 ]
A little update.

Got the sticker installed. Too bad I lost the center from the last a. It's also now covered in bird shit


Changed the tramsmission oil last tuesday. I had no idea what brand of oil the old one was and when it was last changed. Seemed to be colored bright red and extremely thin when hot. The magnetic plug didn't hold any surprises.


My way of adding new oil. Slow, but got the job done. I used Mobilube GX 80W-90. No problems with shifting so far.


The postman woke me up early this morning to bring me these. Got to order the remaining two, just when I can figure out where.


Now I'm waiting for a new radiator and anti roll bar rods.

[janusz]

These bushings are rubber or rubber-oil?

You should be very happy, that you managed to unscrew filler cap, and you didn't have to pour oil through the vent of gearbox
Yes, Zilekq and I poured 1L of oil via vent of gearbox - we used syringe 25ml - we hadn't 100ml......

Colour of oil - nothing new. When i changed oil in Primera's WP11 Michal_m66, the colour was darker. A little bit better situation than yours where in Primera's Vesp and WP11 Zielkq.


Sticker on your car - it's a very nice for us.



_

[Michal_M66]

Totenkopf, Than you for explicite answer for my question. I am curious what will be the resoult of changing those: http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss26 ... 110928.jpg pads

[Totenkopf]

janusz, The front bushing seems to be a hydraulic one, at least it feels like it. The cross member mount is solid rubber just like the OEM one. I had the exact same mounts on the GX.

I had to use a little force and a extension to open the filler plug. As a matter of fact, I opened it up first, just in case I would damage it I would still have the old oil inside the gearbox

Michal_M66, You're welcome, always a pleasure to help. I really hope they work out just the same way as they did on my previous Primera. I just have to purchase the remaining two from somewhere.

[ Dodano: 2016-07-31, 15:13 ]
Today I reached 1kkm after the overhaul. Ta-daa, no oil consumption so far!

Here's a little sound sample of the engine, tell me what you think.
http://vid582.photobucket.com/albums/ss ... 7.2016.mp4

I also purchased a new product and tried it. It is called Korrek TFC, which stands for Thin Film Coating. It's a finnish innovation and it is supposed to create a thin protetcive film which protects the surfaces from dirt, water, etc. The package contains a pump bottle of the actual product and a sponge. It is applied to a washed wet surface with the sponge and rinsed with cool water to activate it. After that it has to be dried with a microfiber cloth to finish the surface. The manufacturer recommends to use a finishing product, but I did not.


I have to say that I'm impressed with the result. Looks even better than liquid wax.

[janusz]

Today I reached 1kkm after the overhaul. Ta-daa, no oil consumption so far!

It's a very strange feelings, when you check the oil level and you don't must add....

Now i checking the oil level from habits..... Once per thousand kilometers - if i don't forgot about it.....

[Totenkopf]

janusz, Indeed. You cannot be too sure about it though. Better safe than sorry. I have always said that a true car owner takes good care of his (or hers) vehicle and regurarly checks the fluid levels.

[ Dodano: 2016-08-03, 16:13 ]
Update: Got my new radiator and anti roll bar links.

Got a Nissens instead of Thermotec. Don't know if that's a bad thing or not, we'll see.


ARB- links


I started thinking that would it be wise in any means just to replace the top link bushings with poly's instead of buying brand new ones.

[janusz]

I said you, that poly it's a very good solution

But if you want replace bushes in upper link, first you must to know what is the inner diameter of upper link.

[Totenkopf]

Howdy!

Last weekend I had only a little time to work with the car, but still managed to move forward.
I swapped the old radiator to a aftermarket one (Nissens) and the front arb- links. I also changed the engine oil for the first time after the overhaul. This time I used Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 (I managed to get it rather cheap) and a Mahle OC195 filter.

So far I've noticed several things.
1. The rocker cover gaskets are leaking. Believe it or not, it seems that the outer gasket has shrunken a bit! Fuck Victor Reinz I say....
2. The engine mounts are all gone. I feel a massive clunk every time I accelerate. I ordered the remaining two and they should be here at the end of next week.
3. Still, no oil consumption.

And here are a few pics to prove that I'm not just blabbering my ass off

The old radiators upper hose joint had started to soften and crumble off. Wonder it didn't blow off earlier.


New one going in.




All done.


New ARB- links fitted. Didn't manage to get rid off that annoying clunking sound. Might be the top links then.


Here's everything so far. Next time I will be changing all the engine mounts and the rocker cover gasket to an OEM one.

[Michal_M66]

Totenkopf, It must be nice feeling when you don't have to supply an oil